Medellín

The City of Eternal Spring, transformed from a drug-trafficking capital into a model of innovation, with Comuna 13's graffiti and escalators, the Guatapé rock, and the August Flower Festival. One of South America's most dynamic cities.

Medellín is Colombia's second-largest city and the capital of Antioquia Department, with a population of about 2.6 million (about 4 million in the metropolitan area). It sits in the Aburrá Valley in the middle of the Andes at an altitude of about 1,495 m. The city stretches long and narrow, north to south, along the Medellín River, with red-brick houses stacked up the hillsides on both sides. Thanks to the combination of altitude and latitude, temperatures stay at 18–28°C all year, earning it the name "City of Eternal Spring." In the 1980s and 90s, Medellín became one of the most dangerous cities in the world because of Pablo Escobar's drug cartel. Since then it has undergone a remarkable transformation through "social urbanism" projects such as the metro, aerial cable cars, outdoor escalators in hillside neighborhoods and library parks, and in 2013 it was named the world's most innovative city. Areas to explore: ① Downtown (Plaza Botero, the Museo de Antioquia, the Palacio de la Cultura); ② the northern university district (the Botanical Garden, the Explora science museum); ③ Comuna 13 in the west (street graffiti and outdoor escalators); ④ the cable car lines on the northeastern slopes and Parque Arví at the summit; ⑤ El Poblado and Laureles in the south (hotels, restaurants and nightlife); ⑥ Guatapé and the Peñol rock, about 2 hours' drive to the east. Seasons: good year-round, with December–March and July–August relatively dry; the ten-day Feria de las Flores in early August features a grand parade of silleteros (flower carriers); in December the whole city lights up with Christmas lights (Alumbrados). Getting there: José María Córdova International Airport (MDE) is in Rionegro to the east, and a taxi to the city takes about 45–60 minutes (about COP 90,000–100,000); the airport bus is cheaper. In the city, the Medellín Metro is Colombia's only metro system and connects to cable cars, the tram and BRT on a single ticket using the Cívica card, at about COP 3,500 per ride. We suggest 3–4 days: 2–3 days in the city, 1 day for Guatapé, and optionally a coffee-farm day trip. Notes: Chinese passport holders need a Colombian visa, but those with a valid US or Schengen visa can enter visa-free. The local saying "No dar papaya" means don't flaunt your valuables: don't use your phone on the street or wear jewelry, and use ride-hailing apps at night. Downtown is less safe at night, so go only during the day. The nightclub district of El Poblado also has scams and drink-spiking that target tourists, so drink only what you watch being made.

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