Matsu Islands

A chain of former frontline islands where “blue tears” (bioluminescent plankton) glow on summer nights. Visit Qibi’s stone-house village built from Minnan granite, Beihai Tunnel and Dongyin Lighthouse, and island-hop among Nangan, Beigan and Dongyin.

The Matsu Islands lie off the mouth of the Min River, across the sea from Lianjiang and the Huangqi Peninsula in Fujian’s Fuzhou area. The chain includes Nangan, Beigan, Dongyin, Dongju and Xiju, and is currently administered by the Taiwan authorities. The islands preserve many granite stone houses built into the hillsides in the Minnan style. Because the islands were a frontline military zone for many years, tunnels, pillboxes and slogans can be seen everywhere. Most of the sites are part of the Matsu Scenic Area.

The best season is April to September. From April to June, “blue tears” (bioluminescent plankton) peak, with May the brightest month, and waves glow blue at night. Summer is good for island-hopping and seaside activities. Winter brings strong northeast monsoon winds, and spring is often foggy. Flights and ferries are frequently cancelled in these seasons, so leave room in your schedule.

Area breakdown: (1) Nangan is the transport hub, with Beihai Tunnel, Eight-Eight Tunnel, the Mazu Giant Statue, Iron Fort, and the Jinsha and Niujiao villages. (2) Beigan has Qinbi village, Bishan, Banli, and the Daqiu Island sika deer. (3) Dongyin has Dongyong Lighthouse, the One-Line Sky (Yixiantian), Andong Tunnel and the “Northern Frontier of the Nation” sign. (4) Juguang (Dongju and Xiju) has Dongju Lighthouse, the Dapu stone inscriptions and the Fuzheng village.

Transport: Flights from Taipei Songshan to Nangan or Beigan take about 50 minutes. Night ferries run from Keelung. Ferries from Huangqi in Fuzhou to Beigan take about 30 minutes under the “Mini Three Links” arrangement. Travel between islands is by transport boat: about 15 minutes from Nangan to Beigan and about 2 hours to Dongyin. On the islands, rent a scooter or take the bus. Plan for 3 to 4 days, and consider an extra night on Dongyin. Local specialties include old wine noodles, Jiguang cakes and fish noodles.

Top sights

• Qinbi Village – The best-preserved Eastern Min stone-house village on the hillside of Beigan, facing Turtle Island bay. It is known as the 'Mediterranean o…
• Beihai Tunnel (Nangan) – A huge waterway tunnel carved by hand into granite, able to hold more than a hundred small boats. During the blue tears season, visitors ca…
• Tunnel 88 & Matsu Distillery – A wartime tunnel converted into a wine cellar, filled with aged kaoliang and old wine jars. The scent of liquor fills the air, and the Mats…
• Mazu Statue – A standing granite statue of Mazu about 28.8 meters tall, facing the Taiwan Strait. It is the centerpiece of the Matsu Religious and Cultur…
• Dongyong Lighthouse – A white British-style lighthouse that has been in operation since 1904, standing on a cliff at the east end of Dongyin Island. It is Matsu'…
• Magang Tianhou Temple – Legend holds that the body of Mazu, Lin Moniang, drifted ashore here and was buried. The temple contains a “spirit cave,” and the name Mats…
• Dahan Stronghold – A tunnel-style stronghold carved into the granite headland by the sea. Its gun emplacements, firing slits and barracks are well preserved…
• Iron Fort – A fortified outpost built on rocky reefs jutting into the sea, surrounded by water on three sides. It was once garrisoned by amphibious fro…
• Yuntai Mountain – The highest point on Nangan. A military information hall at the summit displays wartime history, and on clear days you can look across to t…
• Jinsha Village – A traditional fishing village on the southwest coast of Nangan, with stone houses built on slopes overlooking the sea. It has a peaceful at…
• Niujiao Village – A stone-house settlement in Fuxing Village on Nangan. The houses are stacked along the hillside facing the bay, and old houses converted in…
• Matsu Folklore Culture Museum – A museum housed in an Eastern Fujian–style building that displays Matsu’s fishing, beliefs and wartime life. It is a good first stop for le…
• Zhenge Daidan Memorial Park – A giant screen wall above Fu’ao Harbor bearing the slogan “Sleep on Your Weapons, Await Dawn.” It is the most prominent landmark when enter…
• Banli Beach & Banli Mansion – The longest beach on Beigan, next to a Qing-dynasty ancestral home of the Wang family. It is good for swimming in summer, and at night it i…
• Bishan Lookout – The main peak of Beigan and the highest point in Matsu. It offers panoramic views of the airport runway, Tangqi and the Qinbi bay.
• War and Peace Memorial Park – A battlefield-themed park and exhibition hall on the northeast tip of Beigan, displaying tanks, artillery and the history of Matsu’s soldie…
• Daqiu Island – An uninhabited islet off Beigan where a herd of sika deer roams. Visitors can feed them up close, making it a popular island-hopping stop i…
• Yixiantian, Dongyin – A narrow crack between granite sea cliffs, with waves surging at the bottom. It is the most dramatic coastal erosion landform on Dongyin.
• Andong Tunnel – A large wartime tunnel in central Dongyin Island, with barracks and observation openings. Its exit at the far end opens onto a sea cliff wh…
• "Northernmost Frontier" Monument – A stone monument and trail on the sea-facing north tip of Dongyin, inscribed “Northernmost Frontier.” It is regarded as the northernmost la…
• Dongquan Lighthouse, Dongju – A granite lighthouse built in 1872, the oldest lighthouse in Matsu. A fireproof wall links it to a British-style residence beside it.
• Dapu Inscription – A rock-face inscription from the Wanli reign of the Ming dynasty, recording how Shen Yourong captured Japanese pirates alive without a figh…
• Fuzheng Village – A stone-house fishing village on the north shore of Dongju, facing the sea and close to Dongju Lighthouse. It preserves the tranquil atmosp…

Where to eat

• Dazhong Diner – A popular home-style eatery on Nangan's Mahang Shopping Street, where you can sample Matsu specialties like old-wine no…
• Chaoqun Jiguang Bun – A famous Jiguang bun shop in Mahang, Nangan, renowned for its "Matsu Burger"—a fried bun stuffed with a pork chop and s…
• Xialiao Eatery – A popular local stir-fry restaurant next to Nangan's Wujiao Village, highly favored for its old-wine white shrimp and r…
• Yuzhixiang Fish Noodles – An old-established handmade fish noodle shop in Tangqi, Beigan; ordering a bowl combining fish noodles, fish balls, and…
• Qinwo Cafe & Bakery – A popular restaurant in Beigan's Qinbi Village, famous for its old-wine egg pizza, offering great views of the village…