Mathura & Vrindavan

The birthplace and childhood playground of Krishna. The Krishna Janmabhoomi Temple in Mathura, the Banke Bihari Temple and the Prem Mandir in Vrindavan draw large crowds of pilgrims, and Holi is celebrated here at its grandest.

Mathura and Vrindavan lie on the banks of the Yamuna River in western Uttar Pradesh, India. Mathura is about 160 km south of Delhi and about 55 km north of Agra, while the two towns are about 12 km apart, both in Mathura district. They are the heartland of Hindu devotion to Krishna. Mathura is regarded as Krishna's birthplace, and Vrindavan is the forest where he played as a boy with Radha and the cowherd girls. Nearby Govardhan, Barsana, Nandgaon and Gokul are known together as the Braj pilgrimage sites, and pilgrims visit them year-round.

In Mathura, the highlights are the Krishna Janmabhoomi Temple, the Dwarkadhish Temple in the old town, and the Vishram Ghat on the Yamuna, where the evening prayers take place. The Government Museum houses a collection of Mathura school Buddhist sculpture. Vrindavan is said to have thousands of temples. The Banke Bihari Temple in the narrow lanes of the old town is the most fervent. Around it are the Nidhivan, Seva Kunj, Radha Raman, Govind Dev, Madan Mohan and Rangji temples, and the Keshi Ghat on the river. On the new town's outskirts are the Prem Mandir, which glows at night, and the ISKCON temple. With extra time, you can walk the Govardhan Hill, visit the Kusum Sarovar and Radha Kund ponds, or, during Holi, travel to Barsana and Nandgaon.

The best season is October to March. March brings Holi, a celebration lasting more than a week in Braj, and August to September brings Janmashtami, Krishna's birthday. Both are lively but very crowded. April to June is scorching hot.

Getting there: Mathura Junction is a major stop on the Delhi–Agra main line. It takes about 2 hours by train from Delhi and about 1 hour from Agra. From there, take an e-rickshaw to Vrindavan.

Most temples close at midday, so visit early or late in the day. Remove your shoes before entering shrines and dress modestly. Many temples prohibit photography. Monkeys in Vrindavan will snatch glasses and phones.

Plan to stay 1 to 2 days. Book accommodation well in advance for Holi.

Top sights

• Krishna Janmasthan Temple, Mathura – The birthplace of Krishna, the dark god revered in Hinduism. It is Mathura's most important pilgrimage site and is often combined with a da…
• Banke Bihari Temple – The most revered Krishna temple in Vrindavan. Devotees sing with fervor, and the curtain is drawn closed and reopened every few minutes, cr…
• Prem Mandir, Vrindavan – A white marble temple in Vrindavan, with exterior walls carved with scenes from Krishna's stories. After dark, the building lights change c…
• Dwarkadhish Temple, Mathura – The liveliest Krishna temple in the old town of Mathura. Built in 1814, it features painted courtyards and fine Rajasthani-style carvings.
• Vishram Ghat – The most sacred riverside ghat on the Yamuna in Mathura. Legend says Krishna rested here after defeating the tyrant Kansa, and the evening…
• ISKCON Krishna Balaram Mandir – Built in 1975 by the founder of ISKCON. Inside its white marble temple, devotional chanting takes place day and night, and it attracts many…
• Govardhan Hill – A sacred hill where Krishna is said to have lifted the mountain to shelter villagers from a storm. Pilgrims walk the 21 km circuit around i…
• Radha Raman Temple – Founded in 1542, this is one of the Seven Great Temples of Vrindavan. It houses a small Krishna image said to have appeared naturally from…
• Nidhivan – A sacred grove enclosed by walls in the center of the old town, with low trees whose branches intertwine. Legend says Krishna dances the ci…
• Seva Kunj – Another sacred grove that rivals Nidhivan. Legend says Krishna dressed Radha's hair here, and the grove contains a shrine and the Lalita Sa…
• Keshi Ghat – The main Yamuna ghat in Vrindavan, with red sandstone steps and pavilions reflected in the river. Evening prayers take place here, and boat…
• Govind Dev Temple, Vrindavan – A massive red sandstone temple from the Mughal era, completed in 1590. It blends Hindu and Islamic architectural styles and originally rose…
• Madan Mohan Temple, Vrindavan – One of Vrindavan's oldest temples, with a towering sandstone spire on a mound beside the Yamuna. It offers views over the old town.
• Sri Rangji Temple, Vrindavan – A South Indian Dravidian-style temple, a rare sight in North India. Its tall gateway tower and gilded flagpole stand out, and its courtyard…
• Radha Vallabh Temple, Vrindavan – The main temple of the Radha Vallabh sect, which holds Radha as the supreme deity. The 16th-century red sandstone old temple stands beside…
• Radha Rani Temple, Barsana – A temple on a hilltop in Barsana, Radha's hometown, where the Lathmar Holi “stick-beating” festival takes place, with views over the Braj p…
• Nandgaon – The village where young Krishna lived with his foster father Nanda. The Nandeshwar Temple on the hilltop overlooks Barsana, and the return…
• Gokul – An old village on the east bank of the Yamuna River. According to legend, Krishna was secretly brought here after birth to be raised by his…
• Radha Kund – A sacred pond on the northern foot of Govardhan Hill. Together with the neighboring Shyam Kund, it is regarded by Chaitanya sect followers…
• Kusum Sarovar – An 18th-century sandstone sacred pond on the Govardhan circumambulation route. The memorial pavilions built by the Bharatpur royal family a…
• Government Museum, Mathura – An important museum housing Mathura School sculptures from the Kushan to Gupta periods. Its red sandstone Buddha images and Jain sculptures…
• Jai Gurudev Naam Yog Sadhna Mandir – A white marble hall beside the national highway on the south side of Mathura. Its design blends temple, mosque and church elements, and it…

Where to eat

• Shankar Mithai Wala – A famous shop by Holi Gate: sweets downstairs, and upstairs kachoris with curry, chole bhature and thickened milk desse…
• Brijwasi Mithai Wala (Janmabhoomi Branch) – Mathura's best-known old-established peda shop, and its Janmabhoomi branch is convenient for picking up treats after si…
• Govinda's (ISKCON) – A vegetarian restaurant inside the ISKCON Krishna-Balaram Temple complex, known for its sattvic thalis and buffet.
• 11 Flowers Rooftop Café – Vrindavan's most popular rooftop vegetarian café, serving food without onion or garlic with views over the town.
• Oma Pahalwan Kachori Shop – A legendary breakfast stall at Holi Gate serving mung bean kachoris with potato curry and large fried doughnuts, open i…

Itineraries

• Vrindavan, Mathura & Agra Pilgrimage – A short trip south from Delhi to the Krishna pilgrimage sites of Braj, followed by the Taj Mahal in Agra.