Matera
A cave city among the world's oldest continuously inhabited places: stay in a cave hotel for views of the city lights, and hike across the gorge to the rock churches on the far side.
Matera lies on the eastern edge of Basilicata in southern Italy, right by the Puglia border. The old town is built on limestone slopes on the west side of the Gravina gorge. Its core is the cave city known as the Sassi: the Sasso Barisano to the north and the Sasso Caveoso to the south enclose the Civita hill, topped by the cathedral, and people have lived in caves here since the Paleolithic. In the mid-20th century, poverty and poor sanitation earned it the name "the shame of Italy," and from 1952 residents were forcibly relocated. After restoration, the Sassi were inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993 together with the Park of the Rupestrian Churches of the Murgia on the opposite side. Matera was named European Capital of Culture in 2019 and has appeared in films such as The Passion of the Christ and No Time to Die. The climate is Mediterranean: April–June and September–October are the most pleasant, July–August days are hot, and winter occasionally brings rain or snow. A visit has three parts: the Sassi cave district (rock churches, cave dwellings, underground cisterns); the upper town with Piazza Vittorio Veneto and its museums; and the viewpoints and hiking trails of the Murgia park across the gorge. Day trips nearby include Gravina in Puglia, Altamura, Castel del Monte, the ghost town of Craco and the Lucanian Dolomites. Getting there: the nearest airport is Bari (about 65 km), with buses or the private FAL railway to Matera; driving is more convenient, but the Sassi area is a restricted zone. We suggest 1–2 nights in a cave hotel and watching the city lights come on in the evening. Expect many stone steps and steep slopes; wear non-slip shoes, and bring water and sun protection in summer.
Top sights
- Sassi di Matera – A thousand-year-old complex of cave dwellings carved into a ravine, once called 'the shame of Italy', now a World Heritage Site and film lo…
- Sasso Caveoso – The cave district on the south side of the Sasso, preserving the most original cave dwellings and rock-hewn churches, stacked like an amphi…
- Sasso Barisano – The cave district on the north side of the Sasso, where many caves have been fronted with carved stone facades. Today it is filled with cav…
- Belvedere Murgia Timone – A viewpoint on the heights across the gorge, offering a head-on view of the entire Sassi cave city. It is Matera's most classic panoramic s…
- Palombaro Lungo – A giant underground cistern hidden beneath Vittorio Veneto Square, about 15 meters deep and known as the 'cathedral of water'.
- Castel del Monte – An octagonal castle built by Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II, standing alone on the Murge plateau, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the des…
- Matera Cathedral – A 13th-century Apulian Romanesque cathedral on the summit of Civita hill, the centrepiece of Matera’s cave-city skyline.
- Belvedere Luigi Guerricchio – A lookout beside Piazzetta Pascoli in the upper town, with views over the Caveoso district and the gorge, and the easiest place to see Sass…
- Murgia Materana Park – A regional nature park listed together with the Sassi as a World Heritage Site, with more than 150 rock-cut churches and prehistoric villag…
- Church of San Pietro Caveoso – The only major church in the Caveoso district not carved into rock, built on the edge of the gorge and one of Sassi’s most photogenic landm…
- Santa Maria de Idris – A rock-cut church carved into the top of the Monterrone rock, connected to the Church of San Giovanni, which preserves 12th to 17th-century…
- Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario – A cave dwelling furnished as it was, showing how a family lived alongside their animals until they were relocated in the 1950s.
- Crypt of Original Sin – A rock church hidden in the gorge cliff, with 8th to 9th-century frescoes depicting the Creation, often called the “Sistine Chapel of rock…
- San Pietro Barisano – The largest rock-cut church in the Sassi, with a baroque façade in front of a nave carved into the rock and an underground drying room.
- Madonna delle Virtù & San Nicola dei Greci – A complex of rock churches and monasteries on two levels, with medieval frescoes and frequent large contemporary sculpture exhibitions.
- MUSMA – Italy’s only museum displaying contemporary sculpture inside caves, housed in the 17th-century Palazzo Pomarici and its underground rock ch…
- Casa Noha – An old Sassi house managed by the Italian Environment Fund (FAI), using immersive projections to tell the story of the cave city from cave…
- Palazzo Lanfranchi – A national art museum in a 17th-century seminary, whose centrepiece is Carlo Levi’s monumental painting “Lucania 61.”
- Domenico Ridola National Archaeological Museum – One of southern Italy’s earliest archaeological museums, displaying finds from the Matera area dating back to the Palaeolithic.
- Tramontano Castle – An unfinished Aragonese-style castle from the early 16th century, with three round towers overlooking the old town and a history of a count…
- Convicinio di Sant'Antonio – A complex of four connected rock churches, later turned into a wine cellar, where you can see both frescoes and wine-pressing vats.
- Gravina in Puglia Aqueduct Bridge – A 17th-century bridge-style aqueduct spanning the gorge, with a stacked rock-cut old town opposite, made famous by the chase opening of “No…
- Altamura Cathedral & Old Town – A small town home to a Romanesque cathedral commissioned by Frederick II, famous for its DOP-certified Altamura bread and the “Altamura Man…
- Abbey of San Michele Arcangelo, Montescaglioso – An 11th-century Benedictine abbey with two cloisters, a library, and well-preserved 16th-century frescoes, one of Basilicata’s most importa…
- Craco – A medieval hilltop town abandoned after a 1963 landslide. Its ruined towers and houses have become a popular filming location for many movi…
- Castelmezzano & Volo dell'Angelo – A rock-peak village in the Lucanian Dolomites, where the Angel's Flight zipline carries you across a gorge between two mountain villages.
- Tavole Palatine (Metaponto) – The ruins of a Doric temple to Hera from the 6th century BC. Its 15 standing columns are the emblem of Metaponto, an ancient Greek colonial…
Where to eat
- Vitantonio Lombardo Ristorante – A one-star Michelin restaurant set in a restored cave in the Sassi, offering creative reinterpretations of Lucanian rec…
- Trattoria Lucana – A long-standing, budget-friendly trattoria in the new town, frequented by Mel Gibson during filming, with a signature p…
- Ristorante Baccanti – Located in the ancient caves of Sasso Caveoso facing a rock church, this modern restaurant is featured in the Michelin…
- La Lopa – A cozy cave restaurant in the Sassi district specializing in traditional home-style Lucanian cuisine, featuring a basem…
- Il Rusticone – A small pizzeria near Piazza Vittorio Veneto, known for its light dough and affordable prices, also serving Apulian-sty…
- Osteria Al Casale – A mid-priced cave-style osteria along the main road of the Sassi, offering sunset views, roasted lamb, handmade pasta…
Itineraries
- Puglia, Matera & Salento Road Trip – A self-drive loop starting and ending in Bari, linking the Matera Sassi, trulli houses, the White City, Lecce Baroque…
- Grand Southern Italy: Naples to Sicily – Cross from Naples to Puglia, travel down the toe of Italy to cross the strait to Taormina, using trains and buses with…