Massawa

A Red Sea port city in Eritrea, with an Ottoman coral-stone old town, Italian colonial architecture and a dhow harbour. It is the gateway to diving and the Dahlak Archipelago.

Massawa is the capital of Eritrea's Northern Red Sea Region and the country's most important port. It lies about 115 km from the capital, Asmara, and the road drops from over 2,300 m on the highlands to sea level. The city is made up of three parts: Massawa Island (Batsi Island), Taulud Island and the mainland, linked by causeways. The old town on Massawa Island preserves coral-stone houses from the Ottoman and Egyptian periods, mosques and Italian colonial buildings. Many houses were damaged in the 1990 War of Independence and have never been repaired. Taulud Island has the old imperial palace and a war memorial. North of the city lies Gurgusum Beach. From the harbour, you can take a boat to Green Island for snorkelling, or sail to the Dahlak Archipelago for diving. To the south lie the ruins of Adulis, the ancient Aksumite port. Massawa is one of the hottest cities in the world. The most comfortable period is November to March, when daytime temperatures are about 28–32°C. In summer, temperatures often top 40°C, and humidity is high. Travel notes: foreign visitors must apply for a travel permit before leaving Asmara. This is usually handled by the tourism authority and can take several days. Photographing the port, military facilities and government buildings is restricted. The local currency is the nakfa, and international credit cards are virtually unusable, so bring cash. Getting there: from Asmara, a bus or hired car takes about 3–4 hours along a winding mountain road with spectacular scenery. The old town is walkable. Plan 2–3 days, or 3–4 days if you include a boat trip.

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