Markam
The first Tibetan county on the Yunnan–Tibet Highway, where Yanjing's thousand-year-old salt terraces line the Mekong, next to Tibet's only Catholic church and the Hongla Mountain reserve for Yunnan snub-nosed monkeys.
Markam County lies in Chamdo, in the southeastern corner of Tibet. It faces Batang in Sichuan across the Jinsha River to the east and borders Dêqên in Yunnan to the south. As the meeting point of the southern Sichuan–Tibet route G318 and the Yunnan–Tibet Highway G214, it is known as the "Eastern Gateway to Tibet". The county seat, Gartog, sits at about 3,870 m, roughly 220 km from Dêqên and 110 km from Batang; most visitors pass through by self-drive or hired car. The main draw is Yanjing Naxi Ethnic Township in the Mekong gorge to the south: thousand-year-old salt terraces are built along the river, Tibet's only Catholic church stands in Upper Yanjing Village, and there are natural hot springs at nearby Quzika. Hongla Mountain, between Yanjing and the county seat, is part of a national nature reserve for the Yunnan snub-nosed monkey. West of the county seat, the G318 climbs over Lawu Mountain, then descends to Rumei on the Mekong and crosses the Zhuka Bridge — one of the sections with the greatest elevation change on the Sichuan–Tibet Highway. Mar–May (salt-harvesting season) and Sep–Nov (autumn) are the best times; the gorges are prone to landslides in the Jul–Aug rainy season, and the passes are snowbound in winter. Spend 1–2 nights in Yanjing and 1 night in the county seat. Elevations vary widely across the county, so watch for altitude sickness and drive mountain roads with care; entering Tibet requires the necessary permits and registration.
Top sights
- Yanjing Ancient Salt Fields – Terraced timber-framed salt pans on both banks of the Lancang River. Salt has been produced here for a thousand years by evaporating brine…
- Yanjing Catholic Church – The only Catholic church still standing in Tibet, blending a Tibetan-style exterior with Gothic vaulted interiors. Most of its congregation…
- Quzika Hot Springs – A group of natural hot springs on the bank of the Lancang River north of Yanjing, where you can soak while looking out over the gorge and s…
- Hongla Mountain – A high mountain pass with primeval fir forest on the G214 Yunnan–Tibet route, and the core of the Markam Yunnan Snub-nosed Monkey National…
- Lawu Pass – The first high mountain pass on G318 heading west from Markam, hung with prayer flags and offering sweeping views of the ranges.
- Rumei & Zhuka Lancang Bridge – G318 crosses the Lancang River here through a deep gorge and a hot valley, making it a classic rest stop on the Sichuan–Tibet route.
- Markam Town (Gartok) – A highland county town at the junction of G318 and G214, the main hub for food, lodging, and supplies for self-drivers on the Yunnan–Tibet…
- Dongda La Pass – A high mountain pass on the Sichuan–Tibet route between Markam and Zogang, at about 5,130 meters. It is known as the highest pass on the so…
Where to eat
- Yanjing Authentic Yikou Noodles (National Highway 214 Branch) – The leading shop for Yanjing's Jiajia noodles. Each bowl is just one bite, and another is served as soon as you finish…
- Yunnan Lijiang Red Fire Pit – A Dian-style fire-pit restaurant diagonally across from the county passenger bus station, with cured pork rib pot upsta…
Itineraries
- Sichuan-Tibet Highway G318: Chengdu to Lhasa – Traverse Western Sichuan and Eastern Tibet along National Highway 318, crossing high mountain passes, glaciers, and lus…
- Yunnan-Tibet Highway Self-Drive: Lijiang to Lhasa – A classic road trip from Lijiang to Lhasa via Shangri-La, Meili, Yanjing, and Nyingchi.