Marfa
A minimalist art town on the high plains of West Texas, known for the Judd Foundation, the Chinati Foundation, a Prada store in the desert and the mysterious Marfa Lights. To the north, the Davis Mountains have an observatory and an old military fort.
Marfa is in Presidio County in far West Texas. It sits on a high plateau at about 1,400 m above sea level, with fewer than 2,000 residents, yet it is a pilgrimage site for contemporary art lovers worldwide. Minimalist artist Donald Judd moved here from New York in the 1970s. He turned an old army base into the Chinati Foundation and later bought houses and studios in town, which are now the Judd Foundation. Galleries, bookstores and design hotels followed, giving the town the feel of an art town in the desert. About 60 km northwest, along Highway 90, is the art installation Prada Marfa. From a viewing spot to the east, you can wait for the mysterious Marfa Lights. About 35 km north is Fort Davis, where the Davis Mountains have the McDonald Observatory, the Fort Davis National Historic Site, a state park and a scenic loop. Farther north is the Balmorhea Springs swimming pool. To the east is Alpine, the gateway to Big Bend National Park.
The best seasons are March to May and September to November. Summer days are hot, with afternoon thunderstorms, and winter nights often drop below freezing. Marfa is very remote. The nearest airports are El Paso (about 3 hours' drive) and Midland (about 3 hours). Alpine is served by the Amtrak Sunset Limited. You must drive. Art museums are mostly open Wednesday to Sunday and require reservations for guided tours. Many shops close early in the week, so check opening hours before planning. Plan 2-3 days: one day for Chinati and the town's galleries, one day for the Davis Mountains and a stargazing party at the observatory, and half a day for Prada Marfa and the Marfa Lights.
Top sights
- Chinati Foundation – Donald Judd's contemporary art museum in a converted army post, home to 100 aluminum boxes and Dan Flavin's fluorescent light installations…
- Prada Marfa – A permanently closed ‘Prada boutique’ beside a desert highway. The contrast between art installation and desert landscape has made it West…
- Marfa Lights Viewing Area – A viewing platform along Highway 90 about 15 km east of Marfa, where visitors wait after dark for the mysterious lights that flicker on the…
- McDonald Observatory – The University of Texas observatory on Mount Locke in the Davis Mountains, home to the Hobby-Eberly Telescope. Its evening Star Parties are…
- Judd Foundation Marfa – Donald Judd's home and studio in Marfa, preserving the furniture, books and works he arranged himself; visitors must join a guided tour.
- Fort Davis National Historic Site – One of the best-preserved frontier forts in the Southwest, guarding the road from San Antonio to El Paso from 1854 to 1891, where African A…
- Davis Mountains State Park – A highland mountain park beside Fort Davis, with a scenic Skyline Drive, hiking trails and the Indian Lodge, built in adobe style in the 19…
- Davis Mountains Scenic Loop – A scenic loop road of about 120 km from Fort Davis, passing an observatory, the highest point on Texas roads and high mountain grassland ra…
- Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center & Botanical Gardens – A desert research institute's nature centre south of Fort Davis, with a cactus greenhouse, botanical garden and canyon trails for learning…
- Balmorhea State Park – A natural spring-fed pool in the desert: the large pool built in the 1930s stays at about 23°C year-round and is clear enough to see small…
- Presidio County Courthouse – The 1886 Second Empire-style courthouse at the heart of Marfa; its pink brick walls and dome are the town's landmark, and you can climb to…
- Hotel Paisano – A Spanish Revival hotel dating from 1930, where the cast of the film Giant stayed during filming; the lobby has a memorabilia display about…
- Ballroom Marfa – A non-profit contemporary art space in a former ballroom, hosting exhibitions, film screenings and music events; it commissioned the Prada…
- Museum of the Big Bend – A regional museum on the campus of Sul Ross State University in Alpine, telling the history of the Big Bend's Indigenous peoples, frontier…
Where to eat
- Marfa Burrito – Ramona Tejada, the 'Burrito Queen,' makes handmade tortillas in her home kitchen, and it is considered a must-stop for…
- Restaurant Cochineal – Marfa's most refined restaurant, serving seasonal tasting menus built around local ingredients, with courtyard seating…
- Jett's Grill – Located in the historic Hotel El Paisano and named after a character in the film Giant, known for its pistachio-crusted…