Mar del Plata

Argentina's largest seaside resort, with Playa Bristol, the Casino Central and a fishing port where you can see sea lions up close.

Mar del Plata lies on the Atlantic coast of Buenos Aires Province, about 400 km from the capital, Buenos Aires. It is Argentina's biggest beach resort city, with around 600,000 residents and millions of visitors pouring in each summer. The city grew out of a holiday craze among the upper classes in the late 19th century, and the centre still preserves the Casino Central, the Hotel Provincial, the Torreón del Monje and the Belle Époque villas around Stella Maris hill and Los Troncos. The main sightseeing areas fall into three parts: first, the city centre with Playa Bristol, the Casino Central, the sea lion statues, the Cathedral and the San Martín pedestrian street, all easily linked on foot; second, south along the coastal avenue to the Torreón del Monje, Playa Varese, Stella Maris hill (with the shell museum and the Castagnino art museum) and Playa Grande, continuing to the fishing port for seafood and sea lions; and third, further south, the Punta Mogotes lighthouse and the aquarium. To the west, Sierra de los Padres and Laguna de los Padres make a good half-day trip, and Mar Chiquita lagoon to the north is great for birdwatching. The climate is temperate oceanic: summer (Dec–Feb) sees temperatures of about 20–28°C and is beach season, as well as peak season for prices and crowds; the Mar del Plata International Film Festival is held around March; winter (Jun–Aug) is grey, cold and windy, and most beach clubs close, but the sea lions at the port can be seen year-round. Getting there: long-distance buses from Buenos Aires take about 5–6 hours, or take the train, or a domestic flight of about 1 hour (Astor Piazzolla International Airport). City buses require a local SUBE card. Plan on 2–3 days. Seafood (fried calamari rings, paella) and Havanna alfajores are must-tries; book beach sunshades ahead in summer, and take care around the port area at night.

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