Maqu (First Bend of the Yellow River)

A highland pastoral region on the Yellow River's first great bend, with the Aiwancang wetland meanders, the Hequ horse ranch and the summer Gesar horse-racing festival, and a hub of the Sichuan–Gansu–Qinghai grassland loop.

Maqu lies in the southwest of Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in Gansu, on the eastern edge of the Qinghai–Tibet Plateau where it borders Qinghai and Sichuan, at an average altitude of about 3,700 m. After flowing from Qinghai into Gansu, the Yellow River winds about 433 km through Maqu, forming the famous "First Bend of the Yellow River". Its banks are lined with continuous alpine wetlands and grasslands, regarded as some of the best grassland in Asia, and it is the home of the Hequ horse and the Oula sheep. Base yourself in the county town (Nima Town): the Yellow River Bridge on the south side is good for sunrise and sunset, and the Hequ Horse Ranch scenic area to the southeast offers horse riding and birdwatching. The Aiwancang wetland and the Gongsaier Kamu Dao viewing platform, about 55 km to the southwest, are the highlight of the First Bend wetlands; the Cairima grassland in the southeast adjoins Tangke in Sichuan. Farther west, in Oula Xiuma Township, are the Ximeiduohetang wildflower fields (about 120 km from the county town; globeflowers in July, gentians in August), which need a separate day. The best season is June–September; in July–August the grasslands bloom and Gesar horse-racing festivals are often held. Other seasons are cold and windy, and winter can drop below –20°C. Getting there: there is no railway or airport; you can hire a car or self-drive from Langmusi (about 100 km), Hezuo or Zoigê, and Maqu is a hub on the Sichuan–Gansu–Qinghai grassland driving loop. Plan 1–2 days. Notes: altitude sickness, strong UV and big temperature swings between morning and evening; gas stations are few between sights, so fill up before setting out; respect Tibetan customs when entering monasteries and herders' tents.

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