Mannar

A narrow island off Sri Lanka's northwest coast, with a Portuguese and Dutch fort, a baobab planted by Arab traders, Thirukketheeswaram Temple and the Adam's Bridge sandbars; flamingos gather here in winter.

Mannar lies at the northwest corner of Sri Lanka. Its main body is a narrow, low sand island about 30 kilometers long and only a few kilometers wide. It connects to the mainland by a causeway and bridge at its eastern end. At its western tip, beyond Talaimannar, a chain of broken sandbars reaches out toward India: Adam's Bridge (called Rama's Bridge in India). The Indian town of Rameswaram lies only about 30 kilometers away across the water. For centuries the island was a center of pearl fishing and maritime trade, and Arab merchants, Portuguese, Dutch and British have all left their traces here. It was badly damaged during the civil war and has been gradually reopened since 2009, but it still sees few visitors.

The main sights are in three areas: the town of Mannar and its surroundings, with the Portuguese and Dutch fort, a baobab tree introduced by Arab traders, and St. Sebastian's Cathedral; the western tip at Talaimannar, with the old pier, the lighthouse and views of Adam's Bridge; and the side of the island facing the Sri Lankan mainland, with Thirukketheeswaram Temple, one of the five principal Shiva shrines of Hinduism, Wankalai wetland, Giant's Tank reservoir, and Madhu Church about 40 kilometers to the southeast. Wild donkeys roam free on the island and are a distinctive feature of the Mannar landscape.

Getting there: A train or long-distance bus from Colombo takes about 6 to 8 hours, from Anuradhapura about 2 hours, and from Jaffna about 2.5 hours. The sights are spread out, so hire a tuk-tuk or drive yourself. The best season is December to April. In winter, Wankalai wetland and the salt pans host large flocks of flamingos and other migratory birds. From May to September, the southwest monsoon brings strong winds, and boat trips may be cancelled. Plan 1-2 days. The local population is mainly Tamil. Dress modestly and remove your shoes when visiting temples and churches. Do not take photos near naval areas.

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