Mangaia

The oldest island in the Cook Islands. Ancient fossil coral cliffs encircle the island, and many burial caves lie within them, making it ideal for slow-paced hiking and guided cave exploration.

Mangaia is the southernmost island of the Cook Islands and the second largest, at about 52 km². It lies about 200 km southeast of Rarotonga, and at roughly 18 million years old, it is one of the oldest islands in the Pacific. The island's structure is unusual. Its outer ring is a raised fossil coral cliff (called makatea locally), 60–70 m high and one to two km wide. Inside the cliffs are taro swamps and lakes, and at the centre are weathered volcanic hills, the highest of which is Mount Rangimotia at 169 m. The coral cliffs are full of caves, and many of them were ancient burial sites where human remains are still preserved. These caves are managed by the families who own the land.

About 500 people live on the island, in the western village of Oneroa (the main village and administrative centre), the eastern village of Ivirua, the southern village of Tamarua and other villages. The people are warm and welcoming, and almost everything closes on Sundays, when attending church singing is an important experience. Visitors mainly: hire a guide from a landowning family to explore caves (such as Tuatini Cave and Truarere Cave, about NZ$50 per person for around 2 hours); climb Mount Rangimotia for a view of the whole island; cycle or ride a motorbike around the island road to visit Lake Tiriara, the wreck of the Zaragoza, Araoa Beach and various lookouts; and learn about the traditional 'pupu' necklaces strung from tiny golden shells.

Air Rarotonga operates several flights a week, a flight of about 40 minutes. There is no bus on the island, but accommodation can arrange motorbike or bicycle rentals. The best season is the dry season, May–October. The reef flat is very shallow and mostly unsuitable for swimming, but on calm days you can snorkel outside the reef. Shops are few and goods are expensive, so bring cash. A stay of 3–5 days is suggested. For caves, wear sturdy shoes and bring a headlamp. Do not touch human remains in the caves, and ask your guide before photographing them.

Top sights

• Te Rua Rere Cave – A large burial cave in the northern coral cliffs, with stalactites, crystal floors and ancestral bones; visits must be guided by a guide fr…
• Tuatini Cave – A large cave between Lake Tiriara and the village of Tamarua in the south, in an unspoiled state, where stalactites and crystalline walls a…
• Rangimotia – The highest point on the island at 169 m, where from the summit of an ancient volcanic hill you can make out a ring of coral cliffs, taro f…
• Lake Tiriara – The only lake on Mangaia, ringed by reed swamps and towering coral cliffs, with a cave mouth at the cliff base said to connect underground…
• Toru a Puru Cave – A maze-like cave system inland from Ivirua on the east coast, around 500 m deep, with burial chambers and some passages still not fully exp…
• Tamarua CICC Church – A coral-limestone church in the south-coast village that keeps its original carved wooden beams and columns, bound with coconut-fibre senni…
• Saragossa Shipwreck – The wreck of a cargo ship that ran aground in a storm in 1904, with anchors and rusted machinery scattered across the south-coast reef flat…
• Ara'oa Beach – A secluded beach at the island's north end, enclosed by coral boulders and small caves, where the reef flat is ideal for wading and photogr…
• Maumaukura Lookout – A viewpoint on the coral cliff top east of Tamarua village, overlooking taro fields and swamps inside the cliffs, next to an old battle-sit…
• Avarua Landing – A small pier on the northwest coast, the island's best spot for sunsets, where villagers often fish and sit in the evening.
• Tua'ati Rock Pools – A small beach and rock pools between two rock walls on the west coast, where you can snorkel at low tide. It is one of the few places on th…
• Oneroa CICC Church – The white church in the main village of Oneroa. Its Sunday choir offers a good chance to learn about islanders' faith and daily life.

Where to eat

• Oneroa Friday Morning Market – The island’s only Friday morning market, where visitors can try tiromi, poke, and the legendary Mangaian pineapple pie.
• Akeke Trading Store (Mangaia Giant Donut) – One of the island’s few grocery stores. Its homemade giant ring donuts are a well-known Mangaia treat.