Mandawa & Shekhawati

The core towns of Shekhawati, Rajasthan's “open-air art gallery,” with havelis and fort hotels covered in murals. Mandawa is the base, and nearby painted towns such as Nawalgarh and Fatehpur are easy to visit.

Shekhawati lies in the northeast of Rajasthan and is made up mainly of the districts of Jhunjhunu, Sikar and Churu. Jaipur is about 170–200 km away and Delhi about 250 km. Between the 18th and early 20th centuries, Marwari merchant families grew rich from the camel caravan routes and, later, from businesses in Kolkata and Mumbai. They returned home to build thousands of havelis, mansions with courtyards, and covered their inner and outer walls with fresco paintings: Hindu myths, royal processions, camel caravans, and also “modern wonders” such as trains, cars, airplanes and Europeans. This is why the region is called an “open-air gallery.” Many owners later moved to big cities and left their homes in the care of caretakers, so the buildings are in uneven condition. This unevenness is part of their distinctive character.

Mandawa is where most visitors stay. Its fort hotels, numerous havelis and the walkable old town are best explored slowly, on foot, from a base here. From Mandawa you can hire a car for day trips. About 25 km to the south, Nawalgarh has the best-restored havelis, the Poddar and Morarka Haveli Museums. About 22 km to the west, Fatehpur has the Nadine Le Prince havelis, restored by a French artist. The area also includes Dundlod Fort, Mahansar and Ramgarh, and about 30 km to the east, Jhunjhunu, with the Rani Sati Temple and Khetri Palace.

The best season runs from October to March, when days are warm and evenings are cool. April to June is scorching, and July to September brings monsoon rains. The easiest way to get here is by hired car from Jaipur or Delhi, a journey of about 4–6 hours. You can also take a train to Jhunjhunu or Nawalgarh and continue by road. Plan to stay 2–3 days. Most havelis are private homes. Visiting usually requires a fee or tip to the caretaker, about 50–200 rupees, and you should ask before taking photographs. The old town's lanes are narrow and busy with motorbikes. Hiring a local guide will help you understand the stories depicted in the murals.

Top sights

• Mandawa Painted Havelis (Old Town) – Dozens of merchant mansions with murals covering their walls line the alleys of the old town at the foot of the castle. A morning on foot i…
• Castle Mandawa – A Rajput castle built in 1755, now a heritage hotel, whose painted halls and rooftop terrace overlook the entire painted town.
• Dr. Ramnath A. Podar Haveli Museum, Nawalgarh – Built in 1902, this is the most completely restored haveli museum, with over 700 murals whose colors still look fresh. It also has gallerie…
• Haveli Nadine Le Prince, Fatehpur – A 1802 haveli bought and restored by a French artist, now serving as an art center and boutique guesthouse. It is one of the most finely re…
• Murmuria Haveli – A merchant's mansion built in the 1930s, whose murals blend European influences with figures from the independence movement, making it one…
• Goenka Double Haveli – Two mansions built side by side by brothers of the same family, with elephants, cavalry processions and mythological scenes painted across…
• Chokhani Double Haveli – Twin mansions jointly built by two brothers in the 1910s in a mirror-image layout, with relatively well-preserved murals and the courtyard…
• Sneh Ram Ladia Haveli – Its facade and arched lintels are covered with finely detailed murals, and the courtyard depicts myths and everyday life. It is one of the…
• Kamal Morarka Haveli Museum – Another restored haveli in Nawalgarh, whose courtyard murals retain their original colors, with especially fine carved wooden doors, ceilin…
• Fatehpur Painted Town – Founded in the 15th century, Fatehpur has extensive, authentic havelis and cenotaphs, and the airplane murals in Khedia Haveli are famous.
• Dundlod Fort – A small fort built in 1750, also known as Shiv Garh Fort, where painted reception halls sit alongside European furniture. It is now a herit…
• Mahansar – A quiet painted village. The 'Gold and Silver Shop' haveli has fine gold-painted scenes covering its interior, and the fort and traditional…
• Ramgarh Shekhawati – A merchant town built by the Poddar family, with finely painted domes on the cenotaphs outside town. Havelis are dense in the old town, but…
• Rani Sati Temple – A large white marble temple in Jhunjhunu and an important pilgrimage site for Marwari merchant families, with lavish mirror and silver deco…
• Khetri Mahal – A 'Wind Palace of Shekhawati' built around 1770 with no doors, windows or walls. Layered arcades provide ventilation, giving it an open, se…
• Laxmangarh Fort – A fort built in 1806 on a rocky hill, overlooking an old town laid out in a Jaipur-style checkerboard grid. The courtyard-style haveli comp…
• Badalgarh Fort – An old fort on a small hill beside Jhunjhunu, once used as stables and barracks. It is a convenient stop to combine with Khetri Mahal.

Where to eat

• Mandawa Kothi Restaurant – A small restaurant in a century-old haveli courtyard, ranked number one in Mandawa on Tripadvisor, with the best review…
• Gwala Rooftop Restaurant – A vegetarian rooftop restaurant next to Radhika Haveli with views over the town; dal baati churma and gram flour dumpli…
• Mona Lisa Rooftop Restaurant – An owner-run, air-conditioned rooftop restaurant on the main street facing the castle; kair sangri with millet bread an…
• Mandawa Haveli Hotel Rooftop Restaurant – A hotel in a painted 18th-century haveli, with a rooftop tent buffet dinner accompanied by folk music and puppet shows…