Manaus & the Amazon

The rubber capital in the heart of the Amazon rainforest, home to the Teatro Amazonas, the Meeting of the Waters of the black and white rivers, and the starting point for jungle lodges.

Manaus is the capital of Brazil's state of Amazonas, on the north bank of the Rio Negro (Black River), only a dozen or so kilometers from its confluence with the Solimões River. With a population of about 2 million, it is the main gateway into the Amazon rainforest. The rubber boom of the late 19th century left behind the Teatro Amazonas, the Palace of Justice, the Customs House and the iron-framed market, and the old town still keeps its Belle Époque look. The climate is hot and humid year-round (26–33°C), and the year divides into two water-level seasons. The rainy season, roughly December to May, brings rising water, with levels highest in June–July, ideal for canoeing through the flooded forest. The dry season from August to November exposes white sand riverbanks and forest trails. Sightseeing falls into three parts: 1) the city, 1–2 days: the Teatro Amazonas and Praça de São Sebastião, the market and port, the Palace Museum, the MUSA rainforest tower and the sunset at Ponta Negra; 2) day trips from the city: by boat to see the Meeting of the Waters and the giant water lilies at Lake Janauari, or visit the rubber plantation museum and Tupé Beach; about 2 hours' drive north are the Presidente Figueiredo waterfalls and caves; 3) a rainforest lodge for 2–4 nights: eco-lodges at places such as Lake Mamori, with night spotting of caimans, piranha fishing and searching for pink river dolphins. The Anavilhanas archipelago and Novo Airão upriver are listed separately as their own destination. Getting there: flights arrive via São Paulo, Brasília and other cities, and from China most travelers connect via São Paulo or Europe or North America. We suggest 4–6 days. Chinese passport holders need a Brazilian visa (check the latest embassy rules); a yellow fever vaccination is recommended, along with good mosquito protection.

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