Makassar

Sulawesi's gateway port city, with Fort Rotterdam, sunsets on Losari Beach and the karst towers of Rammang-Rammang — and the starting point for trips to Tana Toraja.

Makassar is the capital of South Sulawesi province in Indonesia. Set on the southwestern tip of Sulawesi on the eastern shore of the Makassar Strait, it is the largest city and main transport hub of eastern Indonesia. Once the spice-trading port of the Sultanate of Gowa, it was taken by the Dutch East India Company in the 17th century, and Fort Rotterdam and colonial-era buildings still stand in the city; the wooden phinisi schooners of the Bugis people still moor at Paotere Harbour today.

Main areas to explore: The old town centres on Fort Rotterdam, within walking distance of Losari Beach, the City Museum, the Mandala Monument and Chinatown. In the evening, watch the sunset on the waterfront over pisang epe (grilled banana) and beef soup, then cross the bridge to the reclaimed land to see the 99 Domes Mosque. To the south, Tanjung Bunga has Trans Studio and Akkarena Beach, while on the Gowa side you'll find Fort Somba Opu, the Tomb of Sultan Hasanuddin and the Balla Lompoa Museum. About 40 km north, Maros is part of the Maros-Pangkep karst, where a boat ride at Rammang-Rammang, the prehistoric rock art of Leang-Leang and Bantimurung Waterfall make a good day trip. To the west, small islands of the Spermonde Archipelago such as Samalona and Kodingareng Keke are great for snorkelling, and to the east the Malino highlands offer a cool retreat from the heat.

Getting there and around: Sultan Hasanuddin International Airport has flights to Jakarta, Bali and Surabaya as well as international routes; the drive to the city takes about 40 minutes. Ride-hailing apps are the easiest way to get around town, and hiring a car with driver is recommended for Maros and Malino. Makassar is also the jumping-off point for Tana Toraja (about 8–9 hours by road).

Climate and tips: The dry season from May to Oct is ideal for heading out to sea; the westerly monsoon brings rain from Nov to Apr, often disrupting sea activities. Allow 2–3 days for the city itself, or 3–4 days including a day trip to Maros and island hopping. The population is predominantly Muslim, so dress modestly when visiting mosques and tombs.

Top sights

• Fort Rotterdam – Makassar’s most important historic site, a turtle-shaped fortress remodelled by the Dutch in the 17th century, housing the La Galigo Museum.
• Losari Beach – Makassar’s best-known urban waterfront promenade, where locals gather in the evening to watch the sun set over the sea and eat banana cakes…
• Rammang-Rammang Karst – Travel by small wooden boat through limestone towers and mangroves to reach Berua, a village tucked into a valley.
• Bantimurung Waterfall – A broad waterfall in a national park, where water flows over limestone terraces. Known as the 'Kingdom of Butterflies', it is a place to sw…
• Leang-Leang Prehistoric Park – A limestone cave preserving red handprint rock art dating back about 40,000 years, one of the oldest cave art sites in the world.
• Paotere Harbour – A traditional harbour crowded with colourful Pinisi schooners, where you can watch Bugis sailors loading and unloading cargo and the fish m…
• Samalona Island – The small white-sand coral island closest to Makassar's city centre, reached by chartered boat in 20-odd minutes, where you can snorkel aro…
• Kodingareng Keke – An uninhabited sandbar of white sand in the Spermonde Archipelago, with clear water, a popular spot for snorkelling and diving from Makassa…
• 99 Domes Mosque – A red and orange mosque with many domes on reclaimed land across from Losari, with 99 domes symbolising the 99 names of God; it is a new la…
• Fort Somba Opu – Red-brick city wall ruins of the old royal capital of the Gowa Kingdom, with traditional stilt houses from South Sulawesi's ethnic groups o…
• Tomb of Sultan Hasanuddin – Hilltop tomb complex of Sultan Hasanuddin of Gowa, an Indonesian national hero who resisted the Dutch and was known as the 'Rooster of the…
• Balla Lompoa Museum – A large stilt-house museum built in the style of the Gowa royal palace, displaying royal treasures such as the sultans' crowns, weapons, an…
• Tomb of Prince Diponegoro – The final resting place of Prince Diponegoro, leader of the Java War, who was exiled to Makassar by the Dutch. A small cemetery in the city…
• Mandala Monument – A tower monument commemorating Operation Mandala, the 1960s campaign to recover West Papua. When open, visitors can climb to the top for vi…
• Trans Studio Makassar – Indonesia's first large indoor theme park, with roller coasters, a 4D cinema, and street shows, making it ideal for families and rainy days.
• Akkarena Beach – A paid waterfront park in the Tanjung Bunga coastal area, with a pier promenade and restaurants. Watching the sunset here is quieter than a…
• Kelenteng Xiang Ma – A historic Chinese temple in Makassar's Chinatown, dedicated to Mazu and Guanyin, with active worship and finely painted roof decorations.
• Makassar City Museum – A museum housed in a Dutch colonial city hall completed in 1918, tracing Makassar's history chronologically from kingdom to modern city.
• Malino Highlands – A cool mountain area about 1,000 m above sea level, with pine forests, tea gardens, and the Takapala Waterfall, a popular weekend retreat.

Where to eat

• Karebosi Konro Ribs – A long-standing Makassar beef rib shop founded in 1968, famous for its dark spiced soup and charcoal-grilled ribs with…
• Nusantara Coto – A long-standing beef offal soup shop by Makassar’s harbour, where you can choose your beef and organ meats and eat them…
• Serigala Pallubasa – A well-known Makassar pallubasa shop with a thick soup of toasted grated coconut and raw egg yolk. The name simply come…
• Rumah Makan Lae-Lae – Long-standing charcoal-grilled seafood spot near Losari Beach. Pick your fish and it is grilled to order, a go-to recom…

Itineraries

• Makassar Karst & Toraja Highlands – Explore Makassar's old town and karst stone forest, then take a night bus to Toraja to visit cliff graves and Tongkonan…
• Trans-Sulawesi South-to-North Overland – Journey north from Makassar all the way to Bunaken, passing through Toraja, Lake Poso, and the Togean Islands.