Lushui
Home to Liuku, capital of Nujiang Prefecture, at the southern mouth of the Nu River Grand Canyon; cross the Gaoligong Mountains via Fengxue Yakou pass to the border town of Pianma and Tingming Lake, and catch the unique Lisu bathing festival.
Lushui is the seat of Nujiang Lisu Autonomous Prefecture in Yunnan. Its urban area, Liuku, lies at the southern mouth of the Nu River Grand Canyon, squeezed between the Gaoligong Mountains and Biluo Snow Mountain. It is the starting point for heading north along the Nujiang Scenic Road to Fugong and Bingzhongluo, and the departure point for crossing the Gaoligong Mountains to Pianma on the China–Myanmar border.
There are two main parts: around Liuku, take in the Nu River gorge and riverside views, the former Liuku chieftain's office, the Xiaoshaba scenic area on the northern outskirts and Dengeng Hot Springs (where the Lisu bathing festival is held on the 2nd–6th days of Chinese New Year); to the west, follow the Pianma road past the Hundred Birds Valley in Sanhe village for birdwatching and the forest trails of Yaojiaping, cross Fengxue Yakou pass at about 3,150 m to Pianma, and visit the Pianma Anti-British and Hump Route Memorial Hall and Xia Pianma, the "first village at the national gate". Fit visitors can hire a guide to hike to the alpine Tingming Lake.
The best time is the dry season from November to April, with clear skies and jade-green river water; folk festivities peak around Chinese New Year. In the Jun–Sep rainy season roads are prone to landslides, and Fengxue Yakou may be closed by snow in winter and spring. Getting there: about 3–4 hours by expressway from Dali or Baoshan to Liuku; within the prefecture, self-driving or hiring a car is the norm. Plan on 2–3 days. Going to Pianma means passing a border checkpoint, so carry your ID.
Top sights
- Nujiang Grand Canyon (Liuku) – The southern gateway to the Nujiang Grand Canyon. Liuku, the prefectural seat, is built along the river, and several bridges span the rushi…
- Pianma Anti-British & Hump Route Memorial – Made up of the Pianma Anti-British Memorial, the Victory Monument and the Nujiang Hump Route Memorial, with a fully preserved C-53 aircraft…
- Liuku Tusi Yamen – The former Duan family tusi (hereditary native chieftain) yamen in Liuku’s urban area, a Yunnan provincial heritage site that illustrates t…
- Xiaoshaba Scenic Area – A transport-and-tourism scenic area on G219 north of Liuku, with earth-sheltered buildings, rooftop gardens and views over the Nu River wat…
- Dengeng Hot Springs – A cluster of natural hot springs on the bank of the Nu River, the site of the Lisu “Bath Gathering” during the Spring Festival, with bathin…
- Bainiaogu Bird Valley (Sanhe Village) – A birdwatching hotspot next to the Gaoligong Mountain reserve, with about 525 recorded bird species and a favorite for bird photographers.
- Yaojiaping – A mid-mountain forest zone on the eastern slope of Gaoligong Mountain at about 2,460 meters, with a national trail section and a biodiversi…
- Fengxue Pass – A highway pass over Gaoligong Mountain at about 3,150 meters, snow-covered in winter. Heading west from here leads into Pianma.
- Tingming Lake – A group of high mountain lakes deep in Gaoligong Mountain at about 3,700 meters, pristine and tranquil, reachable only on foot.
- Pianma Border Town – A China–Myanmar border town. Lower Pianma Village, known as “the first village at the national gate,” is a settlement of the Chashan people…
Where to eat
- Aishang Nujiang Shouzhuafan – A popular Lisu hand-grab rice restaurant in Liuku. Rice is served in winnowing baskets, and dinner includes folk song-a…
- Yuejinqiao Huoshaoji (West Nu River Bank Branch) – A well-known local fire-roasted chicken brand in Lushui. Free-range chicken is marinated in sauce, grilled over charcoa…
Itineraries
- Nujiang Grand Canyon, Degong Highway & Meili to Shangri-La – Travel north along the Nujiang Beautiful Highway to Bingzhongluo, then cross the Degong Highway to Meili and Shangri-La.