Luntai & Tarim Populus Forest

One of the world's largest primeval populus (desert poplar) forests, where golden trees line the Tarim River and mirror in its waters, at the northern start of the Tarim Desert Highway across the Taklamakan.

Luntai County belongs to Xinjiang's Bayingolin Mongol Autonomous Prefecture and sits on the southern foothills of the Tianshan at the northern rim of the Tarim Basin, backed by the Tianshan to the north and bordering the Taklamakan Desert to the south, with the Tarim River flowing through the south of the county. It preserves one of the largest and most concentrated primeval populus (desert poplar) forests in the world and is also the northern starting point of the Tarim Desert Highway, making it a common stop for travelers on autumn road trips through southern Xinjiang. The best time is mid-to-late October, when the poplars turn from green to gold within one to two weeks before quickly shedding their leaves; in April you can see apricot blossoms, and in June you can taste Luntai's small white apricots; summers are scorching and winters bitterly cold. The area divides into two parts: first, the county town and its surroundings, with Han-dynasty Western Regions relics such as the ruins of the ancient city of Zhuoerkute and the white apricot orchards; second, the Lunnan town area about 60 km south of the county town, where you can visit Tarim Populus Forest Park, then follow the desert highway south across the Tarim River into the sea of sand. Getting there: Luntai has a station on the Southern Xinjiang Railway and connects to both Korla and Kuqa airports; reaching the forest park from town requires self-driving or a chartered car, and vehicles are in short supply during the autumn peak, so book ahead. Allow 2 days: one for sunrise and sunset in the poplar forest, and one for the northern section of the desert highway and the county town area. Tips: southern Xinjiang has many checkpoints, so keep your ID or passport on you; supplies along the desert highway are scarce, so fill up the tank and carry plenty of water before setting off; day-night temperature swings are large, and in autumn you'll need a down jacket in the mornings and evenings; Xinjiang runs on Beijing time, but local daily schedules are about two hours later.

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