Longquan & Qingyuan (Zhejiang)

Longquan, home of celadon and swords; Huangmaojian, the highest peak in Jiangsu and Zhejiang, and the primeval forest of Baishanzu; and Qingyuan's timber arch covered bridges and scholar villages.

Longquan and Qingyuan lie in Lishui, in southwestern Zhejiang, on the border with Fujian. This is a land of high mountains and dense forest, and the source of the Oujiang River. Longquan is famous for two national treasures. The first is Longquan celadon, whose traditional firing techniques became the first ceramic craft inscribed on UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity list. The second is the Longquan sword, said to have been forged here by Ou Yezi in the Spring and Autumn period. Qingyuan is known as the "Home of Covered Bridges in China" and the birthplace of shiitake cultivation, and it preserves many Ming- and Qing-dynasty timber arch covered bridges. A visit divides into three areas. First, Longquan town and its surroundings: the Longquan Celadon Museum, Sword Town and Jianchi Lake, and the former site of Zhejiang University's Longquan Branch. In the west, Shangyang Town's Celadon Town offers hands-on pottery workshops; in the south, Dayao Village has Song- and Yuan-dynasty kiln sites; in the east, Anren Town has Yonghe Bridge. Second, Fengyang Mountain and Baishanzu, both part of Qianjiangyuan–Baishanzu National Park. At 1,929 m, Huangmaojian is the highest peak in Jiangsu and Zhejiang, cool in summer, with seas of clouds and rime ice in autumn and winter. Third, Qingyuan county town and the countryside: the covered bridge cluster at Yueshan Village, including Rulong Bridge, and the scholar village of Daji. Getting there: on the Quzhou–Ningde Railway, Longquan and Qingyuan stations have high-speed trains to Quzhou and Ningde, and Longquan is about 1.5 hours by road from downtown Lishui. Sights are spread out and the mountain roads are winding, so a self-drive or chartered car is recommended. Suggested stay: 3 days, with one day for Longquan town and Celadon Town, one for Fengyang Mountain, and one for Qingyuan's covered bridges and old villages. Local foods include Longquan black rice, Qingyuan shiitake banquets and huangguo (yellow rice cakes). Note: swords are classed as controlled knives; after buying one you must ship it home, as it cannot be carried onto public transport.

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