Lishui Green Valley

Known as "Zhejiang's Green Valley," with sea-of-clouds views over the Yunhe Terraces, the Ancient Weir Painting Village, dozens of old villages in Songyang, and Xiandu's Dinghu Peak, a landscape painting come to life.

Lishui lies in southwestern Zhejiang; more than 90% of it is mountainous, and the Ou River runs through it from west to east, earning it the name "Zhejiang's Green Valley." This destination covers central and northern Lishui: Liandu, Jinyun, Songyang and Yunhe, plus the parts of Suichang and Qingtian closest to the center; Longquan and Qingyuan in the southwest are listed separately as the "Longquan & Qingyuan" destination. There are five main areas to explore. First, Xiandu in Jinyun (Dinghu Peak, Zhutan Hill, Little Red Cliff, Niweng Cave) and the old houses of Heyang, with picture-perfect scenery and secluded villages. Second, Liandu District's Ancient Weir Painting Village (the Tongji Weir and sails on the Ou River), the Dongxiyan danxia landforms, and in the city, Nanming Mountain and Baiyun Mountain Forest Park. Third, Songyang, "the last hidden land south of the Yangtze": traditional villages such as Yangjiatang, Jieshou, Youtian and Chenjiapu, plus Songyang Old Street, the Yanqing Temple Pagoda and cycling through the Damushan tea plantations. Fourth, the Yunhe Terraces and Xiangong Lake, where early-morning seas of cloud and sunrise over the terraces are the signature photos. Fifth, nearby sights such as the Suichang Gold Mine National Mine Park and Shimen Cave in Qingtian. Climate: subtropical monsoon. In Apr–May the flooded terraces shine like mirrors and the tea gardens turn fresh green; Oct–Nov brings ripe rice, autumn colors and frequent seas of cloud. Summers are cool in the mountains but thunderstorms are common, and there's occasional snow in winter. Getting there: Lishui Station is on the Jinhua–Wenzhou and Quzhou–Lishui railways, about 1.5–2 hours from Hangzhou and about 40 minutes from Wenzhou; stations such as Jinyun West, Songyang and Qingtian serve the counties. Sights are spread out, so self-driving or hiring a car with driver is recommended. Suggested 4–5 days: 1 day for Xiandu and Heyang in Jinyun, 1 day for the Ancient Weir Painting Village and the city, 1 day for the Yunhe Terraces (stay at a guesthouse on the terraces for the sunrise), and 1–2 days for Songyang's old villages. Tickets generally run from a few dozen to just over ¥100; check each site's published prices. Local food: Jinyun sesame flatbread, Songyang Dragon Boat Festival herbal tea, Yunhe Solomon's seal (huangjing), and Qingtian paddy-field carp. Note: mountain roads are winding, so watch for falling rocks in the rainy season; the old villages are lived-in communities, so don't walk on the paddy-field ridges or wander into people's homes.

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