Lisbon

The city of seven hills, with Tram 28, Belém Tower and custard tarts, Sintra's Pena Palace and fado, and Europe's best-value capital.

Lisbon is the capital of Portugal, on the north bank of the Tagus estuary at the western edge of the Iberian Peninsula. It is the westernmost capital on the European mainland, and like San Francisco it is built on seven hills, with trams, funiculars and viewpoints serving as its urban symbols. The 1755 earthquake nearly destroyed the entire city, and the Baixa, rebuilt on a grid by the Marquis of Pombal, is today's city center: at its southern end is the riverfront commercial square (Praça do Comércio), and at its northern end are Rossio Square and Avenida da Liberdade. On the hill to the east are Alfama, a surviving medieval district, and St. George's Castle at its top. The hill to the west holds Bairro Alto, the nightlife district, and Chiado, home to boutiques. Six kilometers west along the river, Belém has the Age of Discovery landmarks: Belém Tower, Jerónimos Monastery and the Monument to the Discoveries, with the converted industrial complex LX Factory along the way. The palaces of Sintra and Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point of continental Europe, make the classic day trip. The climate is Mediterranean: March–June and September–October are the best seasons, with plenty of sunshine and temperatures of 18–26°C; July–August is the dry, hot peak season, tempered by sea breezes; winters are mild and rainy. Getting there: Humberto Delgado Airport (LIS) is only 7 km from the city center; the Metro red line takes about 25 minutes, or you can take the Aerobus. Getting around: 4 Metro lines, plus Carris trams and buses. We recommend a Viva Viagem card loaded with "Zapping" credit or a 24-hour ticket (€6.80, covering trams, funiculars and the Metro). The old town is steep, so walking plus trams is the most practical. For Sintra, take the train from Rossio station (about 40 minutes); for Cascais, take the train from Cais do Sodré (about 40 minutes). We suggest 3–4 days. Day 1: Baixa – Alfama – the castle – viewpoints. Day 2: Belém + LX Factory. Day 3: Sintra + Cabo da Roca + Cascais. Extra days: the Time Out Market, fado and the Oceanarium. Good to know: Belém Tower and Jerónimos Monastery are closed on Mondays, and Pena Palace requires a timed ticket bought in advance on the official website. Tram 28 is a pickpocket hotspot, so wear your backpack on your front. The cobblestones are slippery and steep, so wear non-slip shoes. Stay quiet during fado performances in restaurants. Pastel de nata (Portuguese custard tarts) are most authentic at the original Pastéis de Belém in Belém, while Manteigaria in the city has shorter lines.

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