Linxia

The old city of Hezhou, with the brick-carved courtyards of Bafang Shisanxiang, hand-pulled mutton and Dongxiang cuisine, plus boat trips across Liujiaxia Reservoir in Yongjing to the World Heritage Bingling Temple Grottoes.

Linxia lies in south-central Gansu Province on the upper Yellow River. Known in ancient times as Hezhou, it is the capital of the Linxia Hui Autonomous Prefecture, about 150 km from Lanzhou. It has long been a major trading town on the southern Silk Road and the Tang–Tibet Ancient Road, and is home to the Hui, Dongxiang, Bonan and other ethnic groups. There are three main areas to explore: in Linxia city, the brick-carved lanes and mansions of Bafang Shisanxiang, the Donggongguan and Butterfly Mansion, plus Hongyuan Garden, Wanshou Temple and the prefectural museum; to the north in Yongjing County, Liujiaxia Reservoir, boat trips through the Yellow River Three Gorges, the World Heritage Bingling Temple Grottoes and the Dinosaur Footprint Geopark; and to the south in Hezheng County, the Paleozoological Museum and Songming Rock. The best season is May–Oct: Hezhou peonies bloom in Apr–May, summers are cool and autumn brings a fruit harvest; winters are cold, with fewer boats to Bingling Temple. Getting there: expressways and intercity buses link Lanzhou and Linxia, and trains now arrive since the Lanzhou–Hezuo Railway opened. In the city you can walk or take taxis; for Yongjing and Hezheng you’ll need a chartered car or scheduled bus. Allow 2–3 days: one for the city, one for Liujiaxia and Bingling Temple, and one for Hezheng. This is a predominantly Muslim area and food is mostly halal; please respect religious customs. Must-tries include hand-pulled mutton, Dongxiang potato slices, Hezhou baozi (steamed buns), tianpeizi (fermented oat dessert) and “three cannons” gaiwan tea.

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