Linfen
A place where Chinese people trace their ancestral roots: the Great Pagoda Tree of Hongdong, the Flying Rainbow Pagoda at Guangsheng Temple, Xiaoxitian Temple in Xi County and the old villages of Mount Yunqiu, plus the Jin State Museum and Yuan-dynasty opera stages scattered all over the area.
Linfen lies in southwestern Shanxi, in the basin of the middle and lower Fen River. Known in ancient times as Pingyang, it is said to have been the capital of the legendary Emperor Yao. Bordered by Huozhou to the north and Xiangfen and Quwo to the south, it has one of the densest concentrations of historic architecture in southern Shanxi. The area breaks down into four parts: in the city itself are the Temple of Yao, Huamen Gate, the Drum Tower, Iron Buddha Temple and the Linfen Museum; to the north, Hongdong County is the heart of the region, home to the Great Pagoda Tree Ancestral Root-Seeking Park, Su San Prison and the Flying Rainbow Pagoda at Guangsheng Temple; the western mountains hold Xiaoxitian Temple in Xi County, Dongyue Temple in Pu County and Mount Yunqiu in Xiangning, all of which shot to fame as filming locations for the game Black Myth: Wukong; in the south, Xiangfen and Quwo have the Taosi archaeological site, Dingcun, the Fencheng historic building complex and the Jin State Museum, while Huozhou in the north offers the Huozhou Government Office, Shijiagou and Qiliyu. The best seasons are Apr–May and Sep–Oct; summers are hot, while winters are dry and cold but quiet. High-speed trains from Linfen West and Hongdong West stations connect to Taiyuan and Xi'an, and Linfen Yaodu Airport has flights. Sights are spread out, so self-driving or hiring a car with driver is recommended. Allow 3–4 days: one for the city and the Mausoleum of Yao, one for Hongdong, one for the western route (Xiaoxitian and Dongyue Temple), and one for Mount Yunqiu or the southern route. Popular sights require advance booking on public holidays, and photography is banned inside the halls of Xiaoxitian and other historic temples. Food to try: Linfen beef meatball noodles, Hongdong fried sticky-rice cakes and Xiangfen fried tofu.
Top sights
- Hongdong Big Locust Tree Ancestral Park – The departure point of the great Ming-era migrations, and the pilgrimage site for descendants of migrants at home and abroad. As the saying…
- Upper Guangsheng Temple & Feihong Pagoda – An ancient temple on the southern slopes of Huo Mountain. Its Ming-dynasty Feihong Pagoda, covered in colorful glazed tiles, is dazzling, a…
- Lower Guangsheng Temple & Water God Temple – A Yuan-dynasty complex beside Huo Spring at the foot of Huo Mountain. The Water God Temple’s Mingying King Hall preserves rare Yuan-dynasty…
- Xiaoxitian Temple (Qianfo'an) – A Ming-dynasty temple on Phoenix Mountain west of Xi County town. The Great Hero Hall is filled with painted and suspended sculptures, and…
- Yunqiu Mountain – A national 5A mountain scenic area in Xiang’ning County, with ancient villages such as Taerpo and Kangjiaping converted into guesthouses, p…
- Temple of Emperor Yao & Huamen Gate – An ancient temple where Emperor Yao has been worshipped for generations. Its grand halls, including the Guangyun Hall, are impressive, and…
- Su San Prison (Hongdong Ming Yamen) – One of the best-preserved Ming-dynasty county yamen prisons in China, famous from the Peking opera Jade Hall Spring and the story of Su San…
- Mausoleum of Emperor Yao – The tomb of Emperor Yao on the bank of the Lao River east of Linfen. Its gateway, offering hall, and burial mound form an important site fo…
- Linfen Drum Tower – An ancient drum tower in central Linfen with a cross-shaped arched gate at its base. Known as the 'First Tower under Heaven,' it is lit up…
- Dayun Temple (Iron Buddha Temple) – An ancient Tang-dynasty temple in old Linfen. Inside its square glazed pagoda is a huge iron Buddha head, which is why it is nicknamed the…
- Dongyue Temple of Puxian – A Yuan- and Ming-era Taoist temple on Bai Mountain, famous for its underworld sculptures. It is also a filming location for Black Myth: Wuk…
- Huozhou Prefectural Office – One of the best-preserved ancient prefectural government offices in China. The main hall dates from the Yuan dynasty, and the watchtower an…
- Shijiagou Ancient Village – A cluster of Qing-dynasty cave-dwelling courtyards on the loess slopes of Fenxi County, built into the hillside with connected levels and p…
- Dingcun Folk Museum – A Ming and Qing residential complex and folk museum in Dingcun, Xiangfen, with a nearby exhibit on the Paleolithic Dingcun Man site.
- Taosi Site – A capital city site from the Longshan culture about 4,300 years old. A reconstructed ancient observatory is thought to be linked to 'Pingya…
- Fencheng Ancient Architectural Complex – An ancient county-seat complex in Fencheng Town, Xiangfen, with concentrated Yuan, Ming, and Qing buildings including the City God Temple…
- Niuwang Temple Stage at Weicun – A Yuan-dynasty opera stage, one of the earliest surviving stages in China with a clear date inscription. Its caisson ceiling has an elabora…
- Dongyang Houtu Temple – An old temple in Dongyang Village, Yaodu District, dating from the Yuan and Ming dynasties. Its cross-gabled opera stage has upturned eaves…
- Jin State Museum – A site museum built on the Qucun-Tianma ruins, showing the Western Zhou Marquis of Jin cemetery, a chariot-and-horse pit, and a large colle…
- Linfen Museum – A general museum in Linfen city showing cultural relics from southern Shanxi history, including Taosi, Jin state, and ancient Pingyang.
- Guye Mountain & Xiandonggou – A famous Taoist mountain west of Linfen. The Xiandonggou gorge has cave dwellings, ancient temples, and waterfalls, and is said to be where…
- Qiliyu Scenic Area (Mount Huo) – A forested gorge scenic area deep in Mount Huo, cool in summer and home to the Qiliyu ski resort in winter. It is a summer retreat in south…
Where to eat
- Dahuaishu Folk Restaurant – A scenic-area restaurant directly across from the Dahuaishu Roots-Seeking and Ancestor Memorial Park in Hongdong. It se…
Itineraries
- Southern Shanxi: Murals, Painted Sculptures & Yellow River Heritage – Travel south from Linfen to Yuncheng to see Guangsheng Temple, Xiaoxitian, Yongle Palace, and Guandi Temple.
- Grand Shanxi Loop: The Ultimate Ancient Architecture Tour – A comprehensive loop from Taiyuan through northern, central, southern, and southeastern Shanxi, covering all the provin…