Quilotoa Loop
A colonial town on the Andes' Avenue of the Volcanoes, with hikes around the emerald Quilotoa crater lake loop, indigenous markets and the twin Illinizas peaks.
Latacunga is the capital of Ecuador's Cotopaxi Province, in the middle of the Andes' "Avenue of the Volcanoes" at an altitude of about 2,800 m and about 90 km from Quito. It is the gateway to the Quilotoa Loop: heading west via Pujilí, Tigua and Zumbahua, about 70 km brings you to the emerald-green Quilotoa crater lake at 3,900 m, and the villages of Chugchilán and Isinliví north of the lake are linked by trails through the Toachi Canyon, one of South America's most popular multi-day hikes. To the north are the Thursday market at Saquisilí, an Inca stone-walled hacienda and the twin Illinizas peaks; Cotopaxi National Park can also be reached from here, though in this guide it is listed under Quito. Climate: mornings and evenings are cold year-round; Jun–Sep and Dec–Jan are relatively dry, with the best volcano visibility, while the rest of the year brings afternoon rain and fog. Getting there: buses from Quito's southern terminal take about 2 hours to Latacunga, where you change to buses for Zumbahua, Quilotoa and Chugchilán (services are infrequent, so check that day's timetable). Allow 3–4 days: one for the old town and markets, and 2–3 to hike the loop. Note: at this altitude, spend your first night in Latacunga to acclimatise; bring sun protection and warm clothing; the loop has few signposts, so carry an offline map; ask permission before photographing people at markets.
Top sights
- Laguna Quilotoa – An emerald-coloured volcanic crater lake at 3,900 m above sea level, about 3 km across. It is one of Ecuador's most beautiful volcanic lake…
- Chugchilán – A mountain village in the middle section of the Quilotoa Loop, set on the edge of the Toachi Canyon. It is the main overnight stop for hike…
- Mirador Shalalá – A community-run glass viewing platform on the south side of the crater lake, cantilevered over the cliff edge for a dramatic view of the en…
- Isinliví – A peaceful mountain village surrounded by terraced fields at the northern end of the Quilotoa Loop, traditionally the starting point of the…
- Toachi Canyon Viewpoint – A lookout along the loop that overlooks the deep canyon carved by the Toachi River, with layered earth cliffs and Andean terraces that are…
- Zumbahua Saturday Market – A Kichwa indigenous market in a town on the way to the crater lake. The Saturday morning livestock trade and traditional clothing are the h…
- Tigua – A Kichwa mountain village known for “Tigua paintings,” scenes of Andean life painted on sheepskin drums.
- Saquisilí Thursday Market – One of the largest indigenous markets in the Andes. Every Thursday, eight squares across the town open at once, and the livestock area is t…
- Latacunga Historic Center – A colonial old town built from volcanic ash stone, with Plaza Vicente León, the cathedral and the La Mama Negra festival as highlights.
- Casa de los Marqueses de Miraflores – A 17th-century colonial aristocratic residence, now a cultural center, with displays on the La Mama Negra festival and colonial history.
- Pujilí – A pottery town west of Latacunga, known for its elaborate headdresses worn by the “Danzante” dancers during Corpus Christi, with a market o…
- Hacienda San Agustín de Callo – A historic hacienda built on the site of an Inca palace, preserving rare, tightly fitted Inca stone walls in Ecuador.
- Los Ilinizas Ecological Reserve – Twin dormant volcanoes and highland wilderness. North Iliniza, at 5,126 meters, is a popular high-altitude acclimatization climb in Ecuador…
Where to eat
- Rosita's Chugchucaras – The long-standing house famous for chugchucaras, a fried pork platter, run by one family for nearly fifty years. A clas…
- El Gringo y La Gorda – A bar tucked into the courtyard of a colonial house, run by a New Orleans-raised owner serving poor boy sandwiches and…
- Kirutwa Community Restaurant – An indigenous community restaurant beside the Quilotoa crater viewpoint, with a second-floor view of the crater lake, s…
Itineraries
- Quilotoa Loop Trek – Enter the mountains from Latacunga and spend three days trekking through the villages of Isinlivi and Chugchilán to the…
- Avenue of Volcanoes: Quito to Cuenca – Head south along the Andean ridge, passing Cotopaxi, Quilotoa, Baños, and Chimborazo, all the way to Cuenca.