Lankaran

A subtropical town on the southwestern Caspian shore, ringed by tea plantations and citrus groves, with Hirkan National Park preserving Tertiary-era relict forest and ironwood trees.

Lankaran lies at the southeastern tip of Azerbaijan on the southwestern shore of the Caspian Sea, about 270 km from the capital Baku and some 40 km north of the Iranian border. It is the main city of the Lankaran-Astara economic region and the heartland of the Talysh people. With a humid subtropical climate and the Talysh Mountains at its back, the area is covered in tea plantations, citrus groves and ancient Hyrcanian forest, earning it the nickname of Azerbaijan's "land of tea and citrus". In town, the sights cluster around the old quarter and can be explored on foot: the Khan's Palace (now the History Museum), the Zindan fortress tower, the lighthouse and the seaside boulevard, plus the Big and Small Bazaar Mosques. Out of town, the highlights are the UNESCO-listed Hirkan National Park and forest-fringed Khanbulan Lake; Lerik in the mountains to the west is famed for its centenarians, the Istisu hot springs in Masally to the north are good for a soak, and in winter the Gizilagach wetlands are a top birdwatching spot. The best times to visit are April–June and September–October; summers are hot, humid and rainy, while winters are mild but damp and grey. Getting there: the train from Baku takes about 5–6 hours (overnight), long-distance buses about 4 hours, and there are also flights from Baku. Taxis in town are cheap; for sights further out, hiring a car with driver is recommended. Plan to stay 2–3 days. Local specialties include lavangi (chicken or fish stuffed with walnuts and onions and baked), Lankaran black tea and citrus fruit. English is not widely spoken, so have a translation app ready; local customs are fairly traditional, so dress modestly when visiting mosques.

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Where to eat