Lake Natron

A soda lake on the floor of the East African Rift, with a million flamingos, night climbs of the active Ol Doinyo Lengai volcano, Engaresero Falls and ancient human footprints by the shore.

Lake Natron lies in Ngorongoro District of Tanzania's Arusha Region, right by the Kenyan border, on the floor of the East African Rift Valley at about 600 m above sea level. Sodium carbonate (natron) from the surrounding volcanoes makes the water highly concentrated, with a pH that can exceed 10, and algae and salts tint its surface red, orange and pink; the shores are often scattered with the remains of birds 'petrified' by the alkaline water. It is the main breeding ground for about three-quarters of the world's lesser flamingos, and in the dry season tens of thousands can be seen feeding in the lake's shallows. Rising south of the lake is Ol Doinyo Lengai, the Maasai 'Mountain of God' and the only active volcano in the world that erupts carbonatite lava.

The best season is the Jun–Nov dry season, when roads are in better shape and skies are clear; Aug–Dec is the peak of flamingo breeding and gathering, but the breeding grounds are on shoals in the middle of the lake and cannot be approached. Mar–May is the long rainy season, when dirt roads turn muddy and may be impassable. The valley floor is hot year-round, often exceeding 35°C during the day, so plan activities for early morning and late afternoon.

Visitors usually stay in tented camps around Engaresero village on the lake's southern shore. The main activities are: a night climb of Ol Doinyo Lengai for sunrise, a hike upstream to Engaresero Falls, walks along the shore to see flamingos, a visit to human footprints about 12,000 years old, and village cultural experiences with Maasai guides.

Getting there: about 4–5 hours by road from Arusha or Mto wa Mbu, with the second half on gravel and dirt tracks that require a 4WD; most visitors come on a safari vehicle tour, and the trip can be combined with the Loliondo route into the northern Serengeti. A community conservation fee is charged to enter the area, and Maasai guides are required for all activities. Allow 2–3 days. Protect yourself from the sun and stay hydrated; the lake water is strongly alkaline, so do not touch it or go in.

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