La Mancha Windmills (Campo de Criptana)
The La Mancha plain of Don Quixote: a ridge of white windmills at Campo de Criptana, the House of Dulcinea in El Toboso and the Almagro comedy courtyard make up a literary journey.
Campo de Criptana lies in the north-east of Ciudad Real province, in the Castilla-La Mancha region of Spain, on the broad La Mancha plateau. It is about 150 km south of Madrid and is widely recognized as the original setting of the 'windmill battle' in Cervantes' Don Quixote. It is also the central town of the Route of Don Quixote.
The climate is dry continental, with summer temperatures often above 35°C and cold, windy winters. April to June and September to October are the best times to visit. In September, during the grape harvest, you can visit wineries.
You can make the town your base and explore in three directions. Within town: the windmill hill, the old white-washed Albaicín quarter and the church. To the north-east: El Toboso, the House of Dulcinea, and the Mota del Cuervo windmills. To the south-west: Alcázar de San Juan, the inn at Puerto Lápice, the Ruidera Lakes and the Almagro Corral de Comedias. The famous Consuegra windmills and Belmonte Castle are within an hour's drive and are often combined with this trip.
Getting there: from Madrid, a train to Alcázar de San Juan takes about 1.5 hours, followed by a 10-minute taxi to the town. Sights in the area are spread out and public transport is scarce, so driving is recommended. Plan 1–2 days.
Notes: midday summer heat is intense, so bring plenty of water and sun protection. The windmill exhibition and town museum close at midday, and many are closed on Mondays. Try the Manchego cheese and La Mancha wine.
Top sights
- Campo de Criptana Windmills – A row of white windmills along the town's ridge, believed to be the inspiration for Don Quixote's battle with the windmills. They are most…
- El Toboso & Casa de Dulcinea – The hometown of Dulcinea, Don Quixote's beloved. A 16th-century farmhouse converted into a house museum recreates the life of a wealthy La…
- Corral de Comedias de Almagro – Europe's only fully preserved 17th-century open-air theater that still stages performances, beside the arcaded Plaza Mayor of Almagro.
- Albaicín of Campo de Criptana – A Moorish-style old quarter at the foot of the windmill hill, with low white houses edged in blue climbing the slope, on the route up to th…
- Church of the Assumption, Campo de Criptana – The town's main church, with a tall bell tower rebuilt in the 20th century that serves as another landmark on the skyline.
- Hermitage of the Virgin of Criptana – A white hermitage on a hill east of town, overlooking the windmills and the La Mancha plain, and a pilgrimage site for locals.
- Mota del Cuervo Windmills – A ridge of windmills known as the 'Balcony of La Mancha', where seven windmills overlook the plain and the Manjavacas Lagoon.
- Gran Prior Palace, Alcázar de San Juan – A railway-hub town with a medieval tower and a Knights of St John museum, which can be visited together with the Church of Santa María.
- Venta del Quijote, Puerto Lápice – A traditional La Mancha inn recreated after the one in the novel where Don Quixote was dubbed a knight, serving authentic rustic food.
- Cueva de Medrano – A basement said to have held Cervantes prisoner, where he began conceiving Don Quixote, in one of the towns claiming to be the novel's 'vil…
- Lagunas de Ruidera Natural Park – A string of 16 blue-green lakes linked by travertine dams on the arid La Mancha plateau, where you can swim and go boating in summer.
Where to eat
- Las Musas – A Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant at the foot of the windmill hill, facing Don Quixote's windmills, serving traditiona…
- Cueva La Martina – A restaurant in a 16th-century cave house carved into the windmill hill, serving La Mancha farmhouse food in a cave din…
- Abrasador La Alforja de Sancho – The top-rated family grill house in town, part of the local Abrasador grill brand in La Mancha, with affordable prices.