Kusatsu Onsen

Ranked first among Japan's three great hot springs, with sulfur steam rising from the wooden channels of the Yubatake, yumomi water-stirring shows at Netsunoyu and the Sainokawara open-air bath—plus skiing and bathing in winter.

Kusatsu Onsen sits on a plateau about 1,200 m above sea level on the eastern slopes of Mount Kusatsu-Shirane in northwestern Gunma Prefecture. It has Japan's largest natural flow of hot spring water (over 30,000 liters per minute) and strongly acidic sulfur water with a pH of about 2; together with Arima and Gero it is counted among Japan's three great hot springs, and it has topped the “100 Best Hot Springs in Japan” ranking for many years. The town centers on the Yubatake, surrounded by Netsunoyu, Shirahata-no-Yu and Kosenji Temple; to the west, Sainokawara-dori leads to Sainokawara Park and its large open-air bath, and to the east are Otaki-no-Yu and the Tropical Wonderland zoo. Farther out are the ski resort, Mount Kusatsu-Shirane, Shibu Pass, Manza Onsen and Yamba Dam. Best seasons: December–March is most popular for snowy hot spring baths and skiing; mid-to-late October brings autumn colors; and in summer temperatures are about 8°C cooler than Tokyo, making it a good escape from the heat. Access around Mount Kusatsu-Shirane is restricted depending on volcanic activity, and National Route 292 closes in winter, so check notices before you go. Getting there: direct highway buses from Shinjuku and elsewhere in Tokyo take about 4 hours; or take the JR limited express “Kusatsu Shima” from Tokyo Station to Naganohara-Kusatsuguchi Station (about 2 hours 20 minutes), then a bus for about 25 minutes; buses also run from Karuizawa (about 75 minutes). The hot spring town is compact and walkable. Stay 1–2 nights: on the first night see the Yubatake lit up and a yumomi show, and the next day soak at Sainokawara or head up the mountain or onto the slopes.

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