Kunlun Pass & Hoh Xil

The Qinghai–Tibet Highway climbs over Kunlun Pass into Hoh Xil, with Tibetan antelope, wild yaks, snow peaks and glaciers along the way.

Kunlun Pass & Hoh Xil covers the stretch of high-plateau corridor where the Qinghai–Tibet Highway (G109) and the Qinghai–Tibet Railway run south from Golmud, cross the East Kunlun Mountains and enter Hoh Xil. Administratively it falls under Golmud City in Haixi Prefecture and Zhidoi and Qumarlêb counties in Yushu Prefecture, Qinghai. Along the way you pass, in order: the Kunlun Spring at Nachitai in the Kunlun River valley and the Daoist holy site of Wuji Longfeng Palace (about 3,700 m); Xidatan (about 4,150 m), with distant views of the Yuzhu Peak glacier; Kunlun Pass at 4,768 m, home to the Sonam Dargye Memorial; and then Yuxu Peak, Budongquan Ranger Station, Qingshui River Super Bridge, the Chumar River, Sonam Dargye Ranger Station and the Tibetan antelope viewing platform at Wudaoliang. Hoh Xil is one of the largest uninhabited areas in China. It was inscribed as a UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site in 2017 and is home to Tibetan antelope, wild yaks, Tibetan wild asses and Tibetan gazelles. The best season is June–August: female Tibetan antelope head north to Zhuonai Lake to give birth in June, then return south with their young in July–August, often crossing the highway and railway wildlife passages between the Chumar River and Wudaoliang. Getting there: use Golmud as your base and hire a car or self-drive; a round trip to Kunlun Pass and Sonam Dargye Ranger Station is about 500 km in a day, or you can stop here on the way into Tibet. Notes: the route lies at 3,500–4,800 m, so spend a night in Golmud to acclimatize first, and bring oxygen, warm layers and sun protection. The core area of the reserve is strictly off-limits; stay at the viewpoints along the G109, never chase or feed wildlife, and slow down and give way at wildlife crossings. Winter brings heavy wind and snow and icy roads, so self-driving is not advisable; check official announcements for ranger station opening hours.

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