Kumamoto & Aso
Home of Kumamon, with the famous Kumamoto Castle, the grasslands of Mount Aso, one of the world's largest calderas, and Kurokawa Onsen: the highlight loop of a Kyushu road trip.
Kumamoto Prefecture lies in central Kyushu. Its capital, Kumamoto City, is Kyushu's third-largest city and is famous for Kumamoto Castle and its mascot Kumamon. About 40 km to the east, the Aso area has one of the world's largest calderas: the Aso caldera, about 25 km north to south and 18 km east to west, whose outer rim encloses rice paddies, towns and railways, with the still-active Five Peaks of Aso at its center. It was designated a UNESCO Global Geopark in 2014. A visit splits into two parts: 1 day in Kumamoto City for Kumamoto Castle, Josaien, Suizenji Jojuen Garden, and Kumamon Square at Tsuruya Department Store to see “Director” Kumamon at work (check the official website for appearance times); and 2 days in Aso for the Nakadake crater, Kusasenri, Aso Shrine and Daikanbo, staying at Kurokawa Onsen or Uchinomaki Onsen, plus a visit to Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine in Minamiaso. Seasons: Mar–Apr brings cherry blossoms and fresh green grass after Aso's noyaki (controlled grass burning); the grasslands are greenest May–Aug; Oct–Nov brings pampas grass and autumn leaves; in winter the grasslands turn golden-brown and soaking in Kurokawa's hot springs amid the snow has its own charm, though mountain roads may be icy. Getting there: the Kyushu Shinkansen from Hakata to Kumamoto takes about 35 minutes; buses run from Kumamoto Airport to the city. Trams make getting around Kumamoto City easy. For Aso, take the JR Hohi Line (about 1.5 hours) or the Kyushu Odan Bus, but sights are spread out and services are infrequent, so renting a car is the top recommendation (a mainland Chinese license requires a Japanese translation recognized by Japan, as an alternative to an International Driving Permit; follow Japanese police rules). Note: whether the Nakadake crater is open depends on the volcanic alert level and volcanic gas concentrations, so check the Aso Volcano West Station notices before setting out; people with asthma or heart conditions should not approach the crater. Local specialties include basashi (raw horse meat), taipien (glass noodle soup), Kumamoto ramen and Aso akaushi (red beef) rice bowls.
Top sights
- Kumamoto Castle – Built by Kato Kiyomasa, this is one of Japan's three great castles, famous for its curved Musha-gaeshi stone walls. The main keep reopened…
- Mt. Aso Nakadake Crater – The only active crater among the five peaks of Mt. Aso. From the crater rim you can look down on the emerald acidic crater lake and rising…
- Kusasenri – A grassland in an ancient crater on Mt. Aso, about 1 km across, with rainwater ponds in the middle. Grazing horses and the plume of Nakadak…
- Daikanbo – The highest point on the northern side of the Aso outer rim, with views over the whole caldera plain and the five Aso peaks, which look lik…
- Kurokawa Onsen – A hot-spring village of about 30 inns in a valley in northern Aso. With an 'Iriyu Tegata' wooden pass, you can tour the outdoor baths of se…
- Suizenji Jojuen Garden – A Momoyama-style stroll garden built over generations by the Hosokawa family, famous for its miniature Tokaido road scenery and the 'Little…
- Aso Shrine – An ancient shrine enshrining Takeiwakatsu no Mikoto, the mythical founder of Aso, and his family of twelve deities. Its gatehouse, collapse…
- Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine – A hidden shrine in a cedar forest in southern Aso, where nearly a hundred stone lanterns line a moss-covered stone staircase that ends at a…
- Kumamon Square – The 'office' of Kumamon, Kumamoto's mascot, with scheduled appearances and dance performances, plus exclusive merchandise and a café featur…
- Sakuranobaba Josaien – A food street and history center at the foot of Kumamoto Castle, styled after Edo-period castle-town streets, where you can sample horse-me…
- Former Hosokawa Gyobu Residence – A senior-retainer residence from the Edo period belonging to a branch of the Hosokawa family, lords of Higo Domain, with well-preserved sho…
- Honmyo-ji Temple – The family temple of Katō Kiyomasa, lord of Kumamoto Castle, where a steep 176-step stone staircase called Munatsuki Gangi leads to the Jōc…
- Reigando Cave & Unganzen-ji – The cave where swordsman Miyamoto Musashi secluded himself in his later years and wrote the Book of Five Rings, with five hundred arhat sto…
- Lake Ezu & Kumamoto City Zoological and Botanical Gardens – A city lake fed by about 400,000 tons of underground water a day, with a zoo and botanical garden on its shore, a favorite leisure spot for…
- Kamitori & Shimotori Arcades – Kumamoto's largest covered shopping arcades, lined with Kumamoto ramen, horse sashimi and izakaya, and the center of eating, drinking and s…
- Aso Volcano Museum – Located across from Kusasenri, the museum uses live crater cameras and large screens to explain the structure and eruption history of Mount…
- Komezuka – A small cone-shaped volcano west of Aso that looks like an overturned rice bowl, with a dimpled top as if a scoop of rice had been taken ou…
- Aso Farm Land – A large resort at the foot of Mount Aso with about 470 dome-shaped cottages, a health-and-fitness park and an animal park suitable for fami…
- Nabegataki Falls – A curtain-style waterfall you can walk behind: about 10 meters tall and 20 meters wide, its water falls like silk, and it became famous aft…
- Shirakawa Spring – A spring in southern Aso gushing about 60 tons of clear water per minute. It is listed among Japan's 100 Famous Waters, and visitors can dr…
- Kikuchi Gorge – A clear-stream gorge at the north foot of Aso's outer ring of mountains, where waterfalls and deep pools link through the forest. It is a f…
- Yamaga Yachiyoza Theater – A wooden kabuki theater built in 1910 and designated a National Important Cultural Property, where you can tour the naraku machinery beneat…
- Misumi West Port – A stone harbor designed by a Dutch engineer in the Meiji era, listed as a World Heritage Site as part of the Meiji Japan Industrial Revolut…
- Amakusa Five Bridges – Five bridges linking the Uto Peninsula with the Amakusa islands. Along the way, sea views and small islands make up the 'Amakusa Matsushima…
- Oshitoishi Hill – Mysterious boulders are scattered across a grassy hill in Minami-Oguni, with a 360-degree view of Aso's five peaks. The hill is known as an…
- Takamori Yusui Tunnel Park – A railway tunnel abandoned after groundwater gushed out during construction, now converted into a cool spring-fed walkway with popular seas…
- Uchinomaki Onsen – The largest hot-spring area in the Aso valley, with many inns and views of Aso's five peaks. It is a base for exploring Aso.
- Amakusa Shiro Museum – A museum in Ōyano, Kami-Amakusa, dedicated to Amakusa Shirō, using film and exhibits to tell the story of the young leader and the Shimabar…
Where to eat
- Suganoya Kamidori – A representative Kumamoto horse meat restaurant using meat from its own farm in Aso, offering horse sashimi platters an…
- Imakin Shokudo – A century-old diner in Uchimaki Onsen, widely regarded as the birthplace of Aso's Akaushi Don, drawing long queues year…
- Kokutei Honten – Established in 1957, this famous Kumamoto ramen shop is renowned for its tonkotsu broth with charred garlic oil and its…
- Korantei Shimotori Honten – A historic Chinese restaurant founded in 1934, famous for the Kumamoto specialty Taipien, located in the Shimotori Shop…
- Katsuretsutei Shinshigai Honten – The main branch of Kumamoto's highly popular tonkatsu restaurant, specializing in Roppaku Black Pork, with free refills…
- Takamori Dengaku no Sato – A thatched-roof traditional house in Takamori, Minamiaso, where you can grill skewers over an irori hearth and taste tr…
Itineraries
- Northern Kyushu Road Trip: Yufuin, Aso & Takachiho – A loop starting and ending in Fukuoka without backtracking, passing through Beppu, Kokonoe, Kurokawa, Aso, Takachiho, a…
- Kyushu Rail Grand Loop (No Car) – A car-free loop around Kyushu: Nagasaki on the west, Aso in the center, Beppu and Miyazaki on the east, ending in Kagos…
- Western Kyushu Road Trip: Porcelain, Churches & Amakusa – From Saga's porcelain towns to Nagasaki, Unzen, and across the sea to Amakusa, tracing porcelain, ports, and Hidden Chr…