Kuching

Borneo's "Cat City", with old streets along the Sarawak River and Dayak longhouse culture; within half an hour you can see orangutans at Semenggoh or proboscis monkeys in Bako National Park.

Kuching is the capital of the Malaysian state of Sarawak, located in northwestern Borneo on the lower Sarawak River. With a population of about 600,000 and a large Chinese community living alongside Malays and Dayak groups such as the Iban and Bidayuh, it is a laid-back, mid-sized city. "Kuching" sounds like the Malay word for cat (kucing), and cat statues are found all over town, earning it the nickname "Cat City". The climate is tropical rainforest, 23–33°C year-round. The northeast monsoon brings heavy rain from November to February, March–October is relatively dry, and the famous Rainforest World Music Festival takes place in early July. Sightseeing falls into three areas. First, the walkable city center: the Sarawak River Waterfront, the Main Bazaar, Carpenter Street, India Street, the Tua Pek Kong Temple and the Borneo Cultures Museum; a 1-ringgit sampan ride across the river takes you to the State Legislative Assembly Building, Fort Margherita and the Malay kampungs. Second, nature on the outskirts: Semenggoh, 24 km south, for semi-wild orangutans, and Bako National Park, 37 km northeast, for proboscis monkeys and sea stacks. Third, the Sarawak Cultural Village and beaches on the Santubong Peninsula to the north. Getting there: travelers from China usually connect via Kuala Lumpur, Singapore or Johor Bahru. The airport is about 12 km from the city center, about RM 20–30 by Grab. City sights are walkable; for out-of-town sights, hire a car or use Grab, as public buses are infrequent. Plan to stay 3–4 days. Tips: Sarawak has its own immigration controls, so even when flying in from Peninsular Malaysia you'll go through a passport check at the airport (keep your entry stamp). Must-tries include Sarawak laksa, kolo mee and three-layer tea (Teh C Peng Special). In the rainy season, heavy afternoon downpours are common, so schedule outdoor activities for the morning.

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