Kratie
A tranquil Mekong river town where you can take a boat out to see endangered Irrawaddy dolphins, cycle the villages of Koh Trong, and stroll French-era streets at sunset.
Kratie is the capital of Kratie Province in northeastern Cambodia, set on the east bank of the Mekong about 230 km from Phnom Penh, or 5–6 hours by road. The town retains French colonial shophouses and a riverside promenade, moves at a gentle pace, and is one of the most popular backpacker stops along the Mekong. The highlight is the critically endangered Irrawaddy dolphin: a few dozen live year-round in the deep pools at Kampi, about 15 km north of town, and waiting quietly in a small boat for them to surface for air is Kratie's signature experience. Other activities follow the river: take the ferry across to Koh Trong island to cycle its loop and stay with a local family; head north to climb Phnom Sambok for sunset and visit Sambor for the 100-Pillar Pagoda and the Mekong Turtle Conservation Center; or go south to the old colonial town of Chhlong. In the December–May dry season, low water levels mean a better chance of seeing dolphins and easier roads; in the rainy season the Mekong runs high and country lanes turn muddy. Plan on 2 days, and consider combining Kratie with Stung Treng and Ratanakiri for a northeastern route. Both riel and US dollars are used; ATMs are scarce, so carry plenty of small-denomination dollars. When cycling, protect yourself from the sun and stay hydrated.
Top sights
- Kampi Dolphin Pool – Critically endangered Irrawaddy dolphins live in a deep pool of the Mekong River. Quietly watching them from a small boat is a must-do in K…
- Koh Trong Island – A sandbar island in the Mekong River across from Kratie. Bike around the island past pomelo orchards, stilt houses, and a Vietnamese floati…
- Phnom Sambok – A small hill about 11 km north of Kratie. The temple on the hilltop has hell-themed murals, and from the summit you can watch the sun set o…
- Sambor 100-Pillar Pagoda & Mekong Turtle Conservation Centre – The Hundred-Pillar Pagoda in Sambor Town was built to commemorate an ancient princess. The temple grounds also house a Mekong turtle conser…
- Kratie Riverfront – A riverside promenade along the Mekong, with colonial-era buildings and night-market snacks. It is the best place to watch the sunset over…
- Kratie Market – A traditional market in the center of the old town, surrounded by colonial-era arcade streets. You can eat bamboo-tube sticky rice and othe…
- Wat Roka Kandal – A 19th-century temple about 2 km south of Kratie city. It is one of the oldest temples in the province, with well-preserved murals.
- Chhlong – A Mekong town south of Kratie with many colonial-era French houses and stilt wooden houses. It is quiet and rarely visited by tourists.
Where to eat
- Le Tonlé – Kratie's most acclaimed community training restaurant, staffed by local trainees and serving Khmer home cooking such as…
- Street Three Eatery – A fusion café one block from the Mekong, serving Khmer dishes alongside burgers and salads, with locally sourced ingred…
Itineraries
- Kratie & Northeastern Red Soil Highlands – An off-the-beaten-path northeastern route featuring Mekong river dolphins, Mondulkiri forests, and Ratanakiri volcanic…
- Southern Laos along the Mekong to Angkor – Travel overland from Pakse through the 4,000 Islands into Cambodia, passing Kratie and Kampong Thom to Siem Reap.