Krasnoyarsk

A major Siberian city on the Yenisei, with the granite pinnacles of the nearby Stolby reserve a hiking magnet, and a world-class hydroelectric dam and the Tsar Fish viewpoint upstream.

Krasnoyarsk straddles the middle reaches of the Yenisei River in Eastern Siberia. Capital of Krasnoyarsk Krai and Siberia's third-largest city, it was founded as a Cossack fort in 1628 and is a major stop on the Trans-Siberian Railway. Sightseeing falls into three areas. The old town on the left bank, along Mira Avenue and the embankment, holds the chapel on Karaulnaya Hill, the Communal Bridge, the Krai Museum, the Surikov Art Museum and Surikov's house, and the Cathedral of the Intercession, all easily linked on foot. Southwest of the city, the Stolby Nature Reserve and Roev Ruchey Zoo, along with Bobrovy Log resort and the Torgashinsky Ridge on the right bank, make up the nature and outdoor circuit; hiking Stolby usually takes a full day. The classic day trip upstream along the Yenisei takes in the Tsar Fish viewpoint, the village of Ovsyanka and the Krasnoyarsk Hydroelectric Dam (about 35 km away), easily done by hired car. The climate is continental: July averages about 19°C, while January often drops below –20°C. June–September is best for hiking, with peak autumn colours in mid-to-late September, and winter brings skiing; because of water released from the dam, the river through the city doesn't freeze in winter and is often foggy. Yemelyanovo International Airport is about 30 km from the centre, and Trans-Siberian trains run to Moscow and Irkutsk (about 18 hours to Irkutsk). Allow 2–3 days. Ticks are active in the Stolby area in May–July, so wear long sleeves and trousers and take precautions. Visa and Mastercard don't work in Russia, so bring cash and check payment options before you travel.

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