Koh Phayam

A laid-back island at the northern end of the Andaman Sea with no cars, only motorbikes; Long Beach and Buffalo Bay are quiet and uncrowded, cashew trees cover the island, and you can soak in hot springs via Ranong.

Koh Phayam lies off the coast of Ranong Province in southwestern Thailand, at the northern end of the Andaman Sea, facing Kawthaung in Myanmar across the water. Covering about 35 square kilometers, it is one of Thailand's rare car-free islands: there are only motorbikes and bicycles, narrow concrete lanes link the bays, and it still keeps a slow, backpacker pace. The island has three main areas: on the southwest coast, the roughly 3 km Aow Yai (Long Beach) has the biggest concentration of accommodation, beach bars and sunset views; on the northwest coast, Aow Khao Kwai (Buffalo Bay) has calmer water and sandbars exposed at low tide, and is known for the Hippie Bar built from driftwood; and Aow Kwang Peeb at the northern tip is almost undeveloped. The pier village on the east coast is the supply hub, where you can rent motorbikes and buy the island's cashew nuts. In the dry season, island-hopping trips from Koh Phayam head north to the wilder Koh Chang (Ranong) and south to snorkel around the Koh Kam islands in Laem Son National Park.

Climate: November–April is the dry season, with calm seas and plenty of sunshine, making it the best time to visit; from May to October the southwest monsoon brings heavy rain and rough seas, boat services are reduced and many bungalows and restaurants close, though it's good for surfing and avoiding crowds.

Getting there: First get to Ranong (about 1.5 hours by air from Bangkok, or by bus from Phuket or Chumphon), then take a speedboat (about 40 minutes) or slow boat (about 2 hours) from Ranong's Saphan Pla pier to the island. Before or after your island stay, you can soak in the Raksawarin Hot Springs in Ranong town and visit Rattanarangsan Palace and the Ranong Grand Canyon. Plan to stay 3–5 days. Note: ATMs are scarce on the island and power cuts happen occasionally, so bring enough cash; roads have no streetlights at night, so always wear a helmet and ride slowly; boats run from Ranong to Kawthaung in Myanmar, but border-crossing rules change often, so check before you go.

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