Kilpisjärvi

A remote village in Finland's highest fells: climb the sacred Saana fell, walk to the Three-Country Cairn, ski in spring, and catch autumn colours and the Northern Lights together.

Kilpisjärvi lies in the municipality of Enontekiö in Finnish Lapland, in the far northwest of the country at the tip of the "arm" of Finland that reaches out between Sweden and Norway. At 69°N, it is Finland's highest-altitude area and the closest thing it has to alpine terrain. The village stretches along the E8 road on the eastern shore of the lake of the same name, backed by Saana, a fell held sacred by the Sámi; Sweden lies across the lake to the west, the Norwegian border is just a few kilometres north, and almost all of Finland's high fells are concentrated here. Climate and seasons: in winter there are about two months of polar night from late November to mid-January, and Sep–Mar is Northern Lights season; with little precipitation and many clear nights, this is one of the best places in Finland to see the aurora. From March to May the daylight returns and snow lies deep, making it peak season for cross-country skiing, snowmobiling and downhill skiing, and the lake can stay frozen into June. Late June to mid-July brings the midnight sun, and July–August is good for hiking, though mosquitoes are plentiful. From late August to mid-September the tundra turns red and yellow, and the ruska autumn colours and early-season Northern Lights appear together, a favourite time for photographers. Highlights: climb Saana for views over the lakes and fells of three countries; hike, or in summer take a boat, through the Malla Nature Reserve to the Three-Country Cairn where Finland, Sweden and Norway meet; fit hikers can follow the Nordkalottleden (Arctic Trail) to Halti, Finland's highest point, and the Pihtsusköngäs waterfall, or shorten the trip by helicopter. Getting there: it is about 420 km from Rovaniemi and about 170 km from Tromsø in Norway, so driving is most convenient; in summer long-distance buses run from Rovaniemi via Muonio (about 7–8 hours), and the drive from Tromsø takes about 2.5 hours. The village has hotels, a hiking centre, cabins and a petrol station, but very few shops and restaurants, and some facilities close in winter. Allow 2–4 days. Note: mountain weather changes quickly, so bring windproof, warm clothing even in summer; in the Malla Strict Nature Reserve you must stay on marked trails; driving in winter requires winter tyres, and watch out for reindeer crossing the road.

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