Khulna & Sundarbans

Bangladesh's third-largest city and the starting point for boat trips into the Sundarbans, the world's largest mangrove forest, and visits to the Mosque City of Bagerhat.

Khulna is Bangladesh's third-largest city and the capital of Khulna Division, located in the country's southwest where the Rupsha and Bhairab rivers meet. It is the gateway to the Sundarbans, the world's largest mangrove forest. The city itself revolves around its port and the jute and shrimp industries and has few sights; visitors come mainly for two things: boat trips into the Sundarbans, and the World Heritage–listed Mosque City of Bagerhat, 40 km away. The Sundarbans (about 6,000 km² within Bangladesh, a World Heritage Site since 1997) can essentially only be visited on 2–3-night boat tours: boarding in Khulna or Mongla, the boats stop at the Harbaria boardwalk, then head to Kotka and Kochikhali in the south to see spotted deer and tiger tracks and walk out to beaches on the Bay of Bengal; longer trips also reach Hiron Point and the fishing island of Dublar Char. If you are short on time, hire a boat from Mongla for a half-day trip to the Karamjal breeding centre. A day trip to Bagerhat centres on the Sixty Dome Mosque, along with other 15th-century brick buildings such as Khan Jahan Ali's Tomb, the Nine Dome Mosque and the Ronvijoypur Mosque. Literature lovers can visit Dakshindihi, home of Tagore's in-laws, and Sagardari, birthplace of the poet Michael Madhusudan Dutt. The best season is Nov–Feb, when it is cool and dry; Apr–May is sultry, Jun–Sep brings monsoon rains and most boat trips are suspended, and during cyclone season (May, Oct–Nov) keep an eye on warnings. From Dhaka, fly to Jessore and continue by road, or take a bus via the Padma Bridge (about 4–5 hours) or a train (about 4 hours). Plan on 4–5 days (including 3 days on a boat). Boat trips must be booked in advance with a licensed tour operator; tour prices include forest permits, armed forest guards and meals. This is a Muslim society, so dress conservatively, and take precautions against mosquitoes and with drinking water.

Top sights

• Sundarbans (Bangladesh) – The world's largest mangrove forest, a World Heritage Site and a habitat of the Bengal tiger. Reaching its heart requires a multi-day boat…
• Sixty Dome Mosque (Shat Gombuj Masjid) – The largest medieval mosque in 15th-century Bengal, with 77 domes and 60 stone pillars. It is the core of the Historic Mosque City of Bager…
• Katka (Kotka) Wildlife Sanctuary – A key stop on the southeastern Sundarbans cruise route, where herds of spotted deer graze on meadows and forest trails lead to a remote bea…
• Mausoleum of Khan Jahan Ali – The tomb of the founder of the city of Bagerhat, where pilgrims gather constantly and sacred crocodiles are kept in the pond.
• Nine Dome Mosque – A small 15th-century brick mosque near the Mausoleum of Khan Jahan Ali, known for its nine domes and delicate terracotta decoration.
• Singair Mosque – A single-domed brick mosque opposite the Sixty Dome Mosque, with the nearby Bibi Begni and Chunakhola mosques within walking distance.
• Ronvijoypur Mosque – One of Bangladesh's largest single-domed mosques, with a dome about 11 metres across, part of the Bagerhat World Heritage Site.
• Karamjal Wildlife Breeding Centre – The mangrove gateway nearest Mongla, with saltwater crocodile and spotted deer breeding areas and wooden boardwalks through the forest, ide…
• Harbaria Eco-tourism Centre – A boardwalk and lotus pond in the eastern Sundarbans forest, often home to spotted deer and kingfishers, and a common stop for multi-day cr…
• Kochikhali – A grassy meadow and beach east of Kotka where tiger tracks are common and cruise groups often arrange hikes.
• Hiron Point (Nilkamal) – A protected area and lighthouse on the southern edge of the Sundarbans, in the World Heritage core zone where coastal dunes meet mangroves.
• Dublar Char – A fishing island at the southern tip of the Sundarbans, with long rows of fish-drying racks in winter and the November Rash Mela drawing la…
• Mongla – Bangladesh's second-largest seaport and the most common departure point for Sundarbans day trips and multi-day cruises.
• Khan Jahan Ali Bridge (Rupsha Bridge) – A bridge over the Rupsha River and a city landmark of Khulna, popular with locals for watching sunsets in the evening.
• Dakshindihi Rabindra Complex – The former home of Mrinalini Devi, Tagore's wife, now a memorial museum displaying photographs of the Tagore family.
• Sagardari (Michael Madhusudan Dutt's Birthplace) – The birthplace of Michael Madhusudan Dutt, a pioneer of modern Bengali poetry, featuring his ancestral house, a memorial museum and an old…

Where to eat

• Abbas Hotel (Chuknagar) – Khulna's best-known chui jhal mutton spot, serving almost only one dish: spicy mutton slow-cooked over wood fire and se…
• Kamrul Hotel – A popular restaurant at the Zero Point area of Khulna city, serving chui jhal beef curry with pepper vine lentil soup a…

Itineraries

• Bangladesh Three World Heritage Sites & Tea Country In-Depth – Travel from Dhaka north to ancient temple ruins, south for a mangrove boat cruise, and northeast to tea country, coveri…
• Bagerhat & Sundarbans Mangrove Cruise – Head south from Dhaka to see the historic mosque city, then spend 3 days and 2 nights living on a boat deep in the mang…