Khiva

An intact ancient city in the deserts of Khorezm, with the walls of Itchan Kala and turquoise-tiled minarets everywhere; after dark it feels like stepping into One Thousand and One Nights.

Khiva lies in Khorezm Region in western Uzbekistan, on the oasis of the lower Amu Darya between the Kyzylkum and Karakum deserts. It was a key Silk Road trading town on the routes toward the Caspian Sea and the Volga, and from the 16th to the early 20th century it served as the capital of the Khanate of Khiva. The city has an inner and an outer town. The inner town, Itchan Kala, is enclosed by about 2.2 km of ochre mud-brick walls and holds more than 50 historic monuments and hundreds of traditional houses. In 1990 it became Uzbekistan's first World Heritage Site, and it is the best-preserved old town in Central Asia, practically an open-air museum. The outer town, Dishan Kala, has later buildings such as the Nurullabay Palace as well as everyday local neighborhoods. Getting around is simple: the inner town measures about 650 m north to south and 400 m east to west, so you can walk everywhere. A combined ticket covering most museums and monuments is sold at the West Gate (Ota Darvoza); it costs about 200,000–250,000 som and is valid for 2 days. Climbing the Islam Khodja Minaret, the Kunya-Ark watchtower and a few other sites costs extra; check the prices posted at the ticket office. Getting there: Urgench Airport is about 35 km from Khiva, with flights from Tashkent, Moscow and elsewhere; Khiva railway station has trains to Tashkent, Samarkand and Bukhara (Bukhara to Khiva takes about 6–7 hours by train, or about 6 hours driving across the desert). Climate: April–May and September–October are the most pleasant; daytime temperatures in July–August often exceed 40°C; winters are cold and dry. Allow 1–2 days, and ideally spend a night at a traditional guesthouse inside the inner town to enjoy the old city empty in the early morning and at night. Tips: Uzbekistan offers visa-free entry to Chinese citizens (check official sources for permitted length of stay before you travel); the currency is the som (UZS), and some shops in the old town accept US dollars; dress modestly when entering mosques and mausoleums, and women should bring a headscarf; in summer, protect yourself from the sun and stay hydrated.

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