Khajuraho

Chandela-dynasty temples famed for their exquisite carvings, with the UNESCO-listed Western Group the most spectacular, plus Panna Tiger Reserve and Raneh Falls nearby.

Khajuraho lies in Chhatarpur district in northern Madhya Pradesh and is home to the Khajuraho Group of Monuments, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Between the 10th and 12th centuries, the Chandela dynasty built some 85 Hindu and Jain temples here, of which just over 20 survive. They are world-famous for their soaring Nagara-style spires and the intricately carved deities, celestial nymphs and amorous couples that adorn their outer walls. The temples are divided into Western, Eastern and Southern groups: the Western Group, in the town centre, is the largest and requires a ticket; the Eastern Group consists mainly of Jain temples; and the Southern Group is scattered among the fields. Nearby are Panna Tiger Reserve, the colourful canyon of Raneh Falls and Kalinjar Fort.

Climate: Oct–Mar is cool and dry and the best time to visit; the week-long Khajuraho Dance Festival is held at the Western Group in late Feb each year. Apr–Jun is scorching, often above 40°C, and Jul–Sep is the rainy season, when Panna's core zone is closed.

Getting there: Khajuraho Airport has flights to Delhi, Varanasi and other cities, and trains run from the railway station to Delhi, Varanasi, Jhansi and elsewhere; a hired car from Jhansi or Orchha takes about 4 hours. Around town, you can walk, rent a bicycle or take an auto-rickshaw.

Tips: Stay 2 days. Spend one day at the Western Group and the museum, followed by the sound and light show in the evening, and the other cycling to the Eastern and Southern groups, or swap it for a Panna safari and Raneh Falls. Remove your shoes at the temples and dress modestly; turn down persistent unlicensed "guides."

Top sights

• Western Group of Temples – The core area of the Khajuraho World Heritage Site. Within a walled garden stand the most magnificent temples and the finest carvings, incl…
• Kandariya Mahadeva Temple – The tallest and most elaborately carved Shiva temple in Khajuraho. Its tiered spires symbolize Mount Kailash in the Himalayas.
• Lakshmana Temple – The oldest and best-preserved large temple in the Western Group, with corner shrines and famous lovers' carvings.
• Vishvanatha Temple – A Shiva temple completed in 1002 with finely carved sculpture, facing a pavilion that houses a giant bull statue.
• Chitragupta Temple – The only temple in Khajuraho dedicated to the sun god Surya, with a statue inside of the god riding a seven-horse chariot.
• Devi Jagadambi Temple – A refined temple sharing a platform with the Kandariya Mahadev Temple, whose outer carvings of apsaras and lovers are considered among the…
• Varaha Temple – A small open pavilion housing a huge boar statue carved from a single block of sandstone, its body covered with hundreds of tiny deity figu…
• Matangeshwar Temple – The only ancient temple in Khajuraho still in active use for worship, housing a roughly 2.5 m lingam and busy with devotees.
• Chausath Yogini Temple – Khajuraho’s oldest surviving temple, built of rough granite, with sixty-four small shrines originally lining its courtyard.
• Eastern Group of Temples (Jain) – A cluster of Jain temples led by the Parshvanath Temple, with fine carvings and still visited by worshippers.
• Javari Temple – A small Vishnu temple in the Eastern Group with graceful proportions. Its tall spire and intricate doorway are highlights.
• Vamana Temple – An Eastern Group temple dedicated to Vishnu’s dwarf incarnation, with graceful and well-preserved apsara carvings on its outer walls.
• Duladeo Temple – A Shiva temple from the late Chandela period in the Southern Group, its outer walls covered with intricate, ornate apsara carvings.
• Chaturbhuj Temple – The only temple in the Southern Group without lovers’ carvings. Its four-armed Vishnu standing statue is about 2.7 m tall, and it’s a good…
• Archaeological Museum Khajuraho – A museum run by the Archaeological Survey of India, displaying fine sculptures recovered from the temple sites, including the famous dancin…
• Khajuraho Light and Sound Show – A nighttime light and sound show on the lawns of the Western Group, using lights and narration to tell the story of the Chandelas and the t…
• Panna National Park – A tiger reserve south of Khajuraho, where open-top jeep safaris pass through Ken River gorges and teak forest in search of tigers.
• Raneh Falls – A canyon carved by the Ken River through coloured granite, with waterfalls pouring down after the rains and the Ken gharial sanctuary along…
• Pandav Falls – A waterfall of about 30 m inside Panna National Park, with an emerald-green pool below and caves said to have sheltered the Pandava brother…
• Kalinjar Fort – An important hilltop fortress of the Chandelas, with walls, the Neelkantha Shiva Temple and cliff carvings overlooking the plains.

Where to eat

• Raja Café – A long-running café opened in 1978, directly opposite the exit of the Western Group of Temples, with a rooftop view of…
• Mediterraneo Restaurant – An open-air rooftop Italian restaurant on Jain Temple Road, considered the best Italian restaurant in town.
• Blue Sky Restaurant – A two-storey open-air restaurant opposite the Western Group of Temples, famous for its treehouse seating with views of…
• Madras Coffee House – A small South Indian family eatery opposite the Western Group of Temples, known for dosas and filter coffee.

Itineraries

• Delhi to Varanasi Ganges Plains Cultural Route – A cultural journey from Delhi to Varanasi via Agra, Orchha, and Khajuraho.
• Gwalior, Orchha & Khajuraho Heritage Trail – Follow the main route south from Delhi to explore a hilltop fort, the Bundela capital, and the Chandela temples
• Central India Heritage Trail: Delhi to Indore – A cultural journey heading south from Delhi through Gwalior, Khajuraho, and Sanchi to Malwa.
• Grand Madhya Pradesh Heritage & Tiger Loop – Traverse Madhya Pradesh from Gwalior to Indore, connecting heritage, tigers, mountains, and sacred cities in one go.