Karamay (Urho Devil City)

Karamay, the 'City of Oil', with the yardangs of Urho World Devil City, Heiyou Mountain and the Baiyang River Grand Canyon – the surreal wind-eroded landscape stop on the northern Xinjiang loop.

Karamay lies in northwestern Xinjiang on the western edge of the Junggar Basin. It is a city born of oil – 'Karamay' means 'black oil' in Uyghur. When Well No. 1 struck oil in 1955, it became the first major oilfield of the People's Republic, and the city rose from the Gobi. It has four districts: Dushanzi, Karamay, Baijiantan and Urho. Dushanzi is the northern starting point of the G217 Duku Highway (with the Dushanzi Grand Canyon, carved by the Kuytun River, nearby), while Urho is famous for the yardangs of World Devil City and is a must-pass stop on the grand northern Xinjiang loop from Urumqi to Burqin and Kanas.

Best time to visit: May–Oct. Summer days are hot (over 35°C) but dry, with cool mornings and evenings; in Sep–Oct the desert poplars around Devil City and along the Baiyang River turn yellow and the light is soft – the best time for photography. Winter is bitterly cold and windy, so Devil City is not recommended then.

Areas to explore: ① City, half to full day – Heiyou Mountain and the Karamay Museum, Well No. 1, the Karamay River and Jiulong Pool, to learn the oil city's history; ② Urho (about 100 km from the city) – sunset at World Devil City, the Baiyang River Grand Canyon and the Urho desert poplar forest; stay overnight in Urho for the sunset.

Getting there: Karamay Guhai Airport has flights to Urumqi and other cities; Karamay and Urho stations on the Kuytun–Beitun Railway have train service. It's about a 4-hour drive from Urumqi to the city. Taxis are easy in town, but Devil City requires driving or hiring a car. Suggested stay: 1–2 days.

Tips: UV and wind are strong on the Gobi, so bring sunscreen, sunglasses and a hat; drink plenty of water in summer; do not enter oilfield production areas; in Xinjiang, hotels and some sights require ID, and sights run on Beijing time but keep later hours than inland China.

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