Kampong Thom & Sambor Prei Kuk

Sambor Prei Kuk, the Chenla capital that predates Angkor, with more than 100 brick towers hidden in the forest — plus Phnom Santuk and silk villages nearby, and few tourists.

Kampong Thom Province lies in central Cambodia between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, crossed by National Road 6. The provincial capital, Kampong Thom town (Stung Sen), is about 165 km from Phnom Penh and 145 km from Siem Reap — around 3 hours by bus from each — and is often used as a stopover between the two. The main draw is Sambor Prei Kuk, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2017: Ishanapura, the 7th-century capital of the Chenla kingdom, built some 500 years before Angkor Wat. Its more than 100 brick towers are scattered through the forest in northern, central and southern groups, famous for their octagonal sanctuaries and 'flying palace' reliefs, and it sees far fewer visitors than Angkor. Nearby are Phnom Santuk with its rock-carved reclining Buddhas and hilltop monastery, silk workshops, the pre-Angkorian brick temple of Prasat Andet, and, on the way in or out, Kuha Nokor temple and the 12th-century Kampong Kdei bridge. The best time to visit is the November–March dry season, when it's relatively cool; April–May is hottest, and in the June–October rainy season some rural dirt roads get muddy. Allow 1–2 days: Sambor Prei Kuk on the first morning, then Phnom Santuk and a silk farm in the afternoon, with a night at the community homestay beside the site. Getting around: hiring a tuk-tuk or motorbike taxi in town is easiest. The temple area is shady but full of mosquitoes, so bring repellent and plenty of water. Some remote areas were once mined — don't stray from established paths.

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