Kaikōura

A bay town where snowy mountains drop straight into deep sea: sperm whales year-round, swimming with dolphins, fur seals and albatrosses, and Kaikōura crayfish to eat.

Kaikōura is on the northeast coast of New Zealand's South Island, about 180 km north of Christchurch, a seaside town of around 2,000 people. The Kaikōura Ranges, over 2,600 m high, drop almost straight into the Pacific, and not far offshore lies the Kaikōura Canyon, more than a thousand meters deep. The meeting of cold and warm currents brings abundant food, so sperm whales feed here year-round, and dolphins, fur seals and albatrosses are also close at hand, making it one of the most convenient places in the world to watch marine life.

It is good in every season: in summer (Dec–Feb) the sea is calm and dolphin pods are largest, and in winter (Jun–Aug) snowy mountains are reflected in the sea and humpback whales migrate past. There are three main areas for activities: at sea, whale watching, swimming with dolphins, albatross watching and whale watching by air; on the peninsula east of town, walking tracks, the Point Kean fur seal colony and Fyffe House; north along State Highway 1, the Nins Bin crayfish stand, fur seals at Ōhau Point and the seaside restaurant at Kekerengu; and behind town, Mt Fyffe is good for hiking.

Getting there: about 2.5 hours by car from Christchurch, or take the summer-running Coastal Pacific scenic train; from Picton it is about 2 hours. Allow 1–2 nights, and keep a spare day in case boat trips are canceled because of wind and waves. After the 7.8-magnitude earthquake in 2016 the coast was uplifted and some tracks were rerouted, so follow the on-site signs.

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