João Pessoa

A seaside state capital in Brazil's northeast, home to Ponta do Seixas, the easternmost point of the Americas; at low tide boats head out to natural reef pools, and the old town's Baroque churches glitter with gold.

João Pessoa, capital of the state of Paraíba in northeastern Brazil, lies on the Atlantic coast just south of the mouth of the Paraíba River. Ponta do Seixas, within the city, is the easternmost point of mainland South America, which is why João Pessoa bills itself as “the city where the sun rises first in the Americas”. Founded in 1585, it is Brazil's third-oldest city, and its old upper town preserves Baroque buildings such as the São Francisco Cultural Centre. The city is also known for its abundant greenery, relaxed pace of life and lower prices than Recife and Natal.

It's hot year-round (25–30°C). September to March is the dry season, with the most sunshine; April–July is the rainy season with frequent showers, but the low-tide natural pools can be visited all year — always check the tide table before heading out.

The area divides into four parts: first, the city waterfront of Tambaú, Manaíra and Cabo Branco, where most hotels are and from where boats go to the Picãozinho reef; second, the old town, where you can walk between the cathedral, São Francisco, the Casa da Pólvora, the Hotel Globo and the Palácio da Redenção; third, Cabedelo to the north, with Areia Vermelha (Red Sand Island), the Fortress of Santa Catarina and sunset at Jacaré; and fourth, the south coast around Conde, with clifftop beaches such as Tabatinga, Coqueirinho and Tambaba, ideal for a day trip. With more time, head north to the Mamanguape River estuary to see manatees, or about 95 km west to the prehistoric rock carvings of Ingá.

Getting there: Castro Pinto International Airport is about 15 km from the city, with domestic flights from São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro and elsewhere; from Recife airport it's about 2 hours by coach or private transfer. Around town, taxis and ride-hailing apps are the main way to get about. Allow 3–4 days. The old lower town and the areas around the bus hubs are quiet after dark, so keep an eye on your belongings.

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