Jiufen & Jinguashi

Former mining towns clinging to hills above the sea, with red-lantern old streets, teahouse night views, the Jinguashi mine ruins and the Yin Yang Sea—stay overnight to see the town shrouded in mist.

Jiufen and Jinguashi lie in the mountains of Ruifang District, New Taipei, on Taiwan's northeast corner, about 40 km from Taipei. The two hill towns are about 2 km apart, with Mount Keelung behind them and the Pacific in front. After gold dust was discovered in the Keelung River in the late 19th century, the area became one of Asia's best-known gold mining districts: Jiufen boomed into a 'Little Shanghai', while Jinguashi was left with Japanese-era dormitories, a Shinto shrine and a smelter. Mining declined in the 1970s–80s, but the 1989 film A City of Sadness brought Jiufen back into the spotlight, and today its red lanterns, stepped teahouses and misty hillsides are among Taiwan's most iconic nostalgic scenes. There are three main areas: first, Jiufen Old Street (snacks on Jishan Street, the stone steps and teahouses of Shuqi Road, and the Shengping Theater); second, the mining heritage belt of Jinguashi and Shuinandong, with the Gold Museum, the Gold Shrine, Teapot Mountain and Baoshi Mountain, followed on the way down the Jinshui Highway by the Golden Waterfall, the Thirteen Levels smelter ruins and the Yin Yang Sea; third, day trips nearby: the Pingxi Line to the southwest (Houtong Cat Village, Shifen Old Street and waterfall, Pingxi and Jingtong, for releasing sky lanterns), Shen'ao Elephant Trunk Rock, the rail bikes and Keelung's Heping Island and Zhengbin Fishing Harbor to the north, and the Northeast Coast to the east (Nanya rock formations, Cape Bitou and Fulong Beach). From October to April, the northeast monsoon brings frequent rain and fog, so bring rain gear; spring and autumn have the most stable weather, summer brings frequent afternoon thunderstorms, and typhoons are a risk in July–September. Getting there: take a TRA train from Taipei Main Station to Ruifang (about 45 minutes), then bus 788, 827, 856 or 891 up the hill; or take bus 1062 from MRT Zhongxiao Fuxing Station directly to Jiufen and Jinguashi. The Pingxi Line connects at Ruifang Station, and a one-day pass is available. Allow 1–2 days: one day for Jiufen and Jinguashi, another for the Pingxi Line or the Northeast Coast. Staying overnight lets you see the night views after the crowds leave and the sea of clouds at dawn. Weekend evenings are extremely crowded, with long queues for buses back; the stone steps are steep and slippery.

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