Janjanbureh

A former colonial town on MacCarthy Island in the middle reaches of the Gambia River, where you can take boats to see chimpanzees and hippos near Baboon Island and visit the UNESCO-listed Wassu stone circles on the north bank.

Janjanbureh lies in the Central River Region of The Gambia, on MacCarthy Island in the middle reaches of the Gambia River, about 270 km from the capital Banjul. Formerly known as Georgetown, it was a British colonial post established in 1823. Today it is the capital of the Central River Region and the hub for travel up the upper Gambia. The town moves at a slow pace, and riverside camp-style lodgings are a good base for experiencing Gambian village and river life.

Main activities: first, take a boat trip through Gambia River National Park to see released chimpanzees, hippos and crocodiles around Baboon Island. Boats can depart from Janjanbureh or from Kuntaur on the north bank. Second, cross the river to the north bank to see the UNESCO-listed Senegambian stone circles. Wassu has the largest concentration of circles and a small museum, while the Kerbatch circles to the west are quieter. Third, explore the town on foot to see the slave house, the Freedom Tree and colonial-era buildings, and go birdwatching in Kunkilin Forest and the Bansang Quarry; this area is a must-stop for birdwatching tours in The Gambia.

The best season is the November–May dry season, with temperatures of 25–35°C, when animals and migratory birds are easy to see. From March to May, midday temperatures can reach 40°C. July–October is the hot, humid rainy season, with muddy roads and plenty of mosquitoes.

Getting there: from Banjul or Serekunda, take a chartered car or long-distance minibus along the south-bank highway, about 5–6 hours. The island connects to both banks by bridge and ferry. Plan 2 days.

Notes: malaria prevention is essential. Bring enough cash in dalasi, as ATMs in town are unreliable. Ask permission before photographing locals.

Top sights

• River Gambia National Park (Baboon Islands) – A national park made up of five islands in the Gambia River. A boat trip around the islands offers sightings of released chimpanzees, hippo…
• Wassu Stone Circles – A representative of the Senegambian Stone Circles, a World Heritage Site. More than a dozen laterite stone circles, over a thousand years o…
• Janjanbureh Old Town (MacCarthy Island) – A former British colonial town on an island in the Gambia River, preserving old trading houses, church ruins, and a riverside port, with an…
• Slave House – A stone colonial-era warehouse by the river in Janjanbureh, presented locally as a slave trade site and the town's main historical attracti…
• Freedom Tree – An old tree near the Slave House, said by legend to grant freedom to escaped slaves who touched it, and a common stop on local history tour…
• Kerr Batch Stone Circles – Another site in the Senegambian Stone Circles World Heritage property, with nine stone circles and a double circle, known for its V-shaped…
• Kuntaur – An old river port on the north bank of the Gambia River, the main departure point for boat trips to see chimpanzees on Baboon Island, near…
• Kunkilling Forest Park – A community-managed forest park on the southeast bank near Janjanbureh, where red colobus, green monkeys, and many forest birds live in the…
• Bansang Quarry – An abandoned quarry beside Bansang town, its cliffs riddled with red-throated bee-eater nests, one of the best birding spots on the upper G…

Where to eat

• Island Hotel Janjanbureh Riverside Restaurant – An open-air restaurant at the riverside island hotel, serving Gambian dishes alongside Western food such as grilled fis…
• Bendula Bar Restaurant – A small bar-restaurant popular with locals and travellers alike, with cold drinks at local prices and food cooked fresh…