Jaisalmer
The “Golden City” of the Thar Desert: a still-inhabited yellow sandstone fort, intricately carved havelis, and camel rides to overnight camps on the Sam dunes.
Jaisalmer lies deep in the Thar Desert in western Rajasthan, about 100 km from the Pakistani border, and was once a major trading town on the camel caravan routes of the Silk Road. Almost the entire city is built of local yellow sandstone that glows gold in the sun, earning it the name “Golden City”. The climate is arid: October to March is the best time, with daytime temperatures in the 20s°C and nights dropping into single digits; the Desert Festival each February features camel races, a pageant and folk music and dance; Apr–Jun often exceeds 40°C and is not recommended. Sightseeing falls into three areas: the old town, centred on the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Jaisalmer Fort, where the palace, Jain temples and finely carved havelis such as Patwon Ki Haveli can be explored on foot; the outskirts, with Gadisar Lake, Bada Bagh, Lodurva and the abandoned village of Kuldhara; and about 40 km west, the Sam and Khuri dunes, where a camel ride at sunset and a night at a desert camp are the signature experience. Further out, Tanot Mata Temple and the Longewala battlefield (about 110–120 km away) make a day trip by hired car. Getting there: flights to Jaisalmer Airport are limited, so most visitors take the train or bus from Jodhpur (about 5–6 hours); there are also overnight trains from Delhi and Jaipur. Allow 2–3 days, including one night at a desert camp. Note: the buildings inside the fort are fragile, so staying outside it is more sustainable; desert temperatures swing widely between day and night; there are many camel safari and camp operators, so choose a well-reviewed one.
Top sights
- Jaisalmer Fort – A 'golden fort' of yellow sandstone built on Trikuta Hill in 1156, where several thousand residents still live within its walls.
- Patwon Ki Haveli – Five connected 19th-century mansions built for wealthy merchants, with yellow sandstone facades carved with lattice windows and balconies…
- Sam Sand Dunes – The best-known dune area in the Thar Desert. Ride camels for sunset, go dune-bashing by jeep, or spend the night in a tent camp listening t…
- Jaisalmer Fort Palace Museum (Raj Mahal) – The seven-story Raj Mahal palace inside Jaisalmer Fort displays royal weapons, silverware and miniature paintings, and its rooftop offers v…
- Jain Temples of Jaisalmer Fort – A cluster of seven interconnected Jain temples, built between the 12th and 16th centuries, with intricately carved yellow sandstone that ma…
- Salim Singh Ki Haveli – A prime minister's mansion from around 1815, with an upper floor that juts out over the street and a peacock-shaped dome of balconies that…
- Nathmal Ki Haveli – A late 19th-century prime minister's mansion, built by two brothers who each designed one half. It is guarded by a pair of stone elephants…
- Gadisar Lake – A man-made reservoir built in the 14th century. Small stone pavilions, temples and the carved Tilon Gate are reflected in its water.
- Mandir Palace & Tazia Tower (Badal Vilas) – A later royal palace with a five-story Tazia Tower, built by Muslim craftsmen and shaped like the paper Tazia towers used in Muharram proce…
- Bada Bagh – A cluster of royal memorial pavilions on the dunes, with yellow sandstone domes set against distant wind turbines. It is a popular spot for…
- Vyas Chhatri – A hilltop group of Brahmin memorial pavilions on the north side of the old town. It is the classic spot for watching the sun set behind the…
- Amar Sagar – A 17th-century lakeside retreat and a 19th-century temple with fine carvings, both on the road to Lodurva.
- Lodurva Jain Temple – The ancient capital that stood before Jaisalmer was founded. The rebuilt Jain temple has a finely carved stone gateway and a sculpture of t…
- Kuldhara Abandoned Village – A ghost village, said to have been abandoned overnight by Palliwal Brahmins who left a curse behind. Its stone and mud-brick houses survive…
- Khaba Fort – A small hilltop fort beside another abandoned Palliwal village. From the top you can look down over hundreds of roofless stone houses and t…
- Khuri Sand Dunes – A dune camp beyond Sam, with fewer visitors, traditional mud-hut villages and quieter desert nights.
- Desert National Park – A protected area in the heart of the Thar Desert, home to the critically endangered Great Indian Bustard, Indian gazelles and birds of prey…
- Akal Wood Fossil Park – A protected site with fossilized trees from the Jurassic period, about 180 million years old, showing that the Thar Desert was once forest…
- Jaisalmer War Museum – A war museum built by the Indian Army, displaying tanks captured in the 1965 and 1971 Indo-Pakistani Wars and the history of the Battle of…
- Tanot Mata Temple – A goddess temple near the Indo-Pakistani border. During the 1965 war thousands of shells fell around the temple complex without hitting it…
- Longewala War Memorial – The site of the 1971 Battle of Longewala in the Indo-Pakistani War. The original outpost, captured Pakistani tanks and jeeps remain, and th…
- Thar Heritage Museum – A small private museum founded by a local folklorist, with a collection of desert household objects, fossils and folk instruments.
Where to eat
- Trio Restaurant – A long-established rooftop restaurant beside Gandhi Square, famous for its red chilli lamb curry, with views of the for…
- Natraj Restaurant – A rooftop vegetarian restaurant right beside Salim Singh ki Haveli, known for its good-value thalis.
- Dhanraj Ranmal Bhatia Sweets – A multi-generation family sweet shop in Bhatia Market below the fort, famous for pounded ghotua ladoo and onion kachori.
- Jaisal Italian Restaurant – A rooftop restaurant at Akhey Pol, the first gate of the fort, serving Italian food with views of the fort lit up at ni…
- Chandan Shree Restaurant – A pure vegetarian, budget-friendly eatery popular with locals, known for its unlimited Rajasthani thali and sweet snack…
Itineraries
- Grand Rajasthan Desert & Forts Loop – A grand loop from Delhi covering Shekhawati, desert fortresses, Udaipur, Pushkar, and Jaipur.