Jaipur

Rajasthan's Pink City, with the Hawa Mahal, Amber Fort and City Palace, a World Heritage old town and craft bazaars. It is India's most photogenic city.

Jaipur is the capital of Rajasthan, in a semi-arid hilly basin about 280 km southwest of Delhi. It was built in 1727 by Sawai Jai Singh II of the Kingdom of Amber, planned according to ancient Indian town-planning principles, making it one of India's earliest planned cities. In 1876 the whole city was painted ochre-pink to welcome the Prince of Wales, giving it the name "Pink City," and in 2019 the old town was inscribed as a World Heritage Site. The main sights fall into three areas: the pink old town laid out on a nine-square grid (the City Palace, the Jantar Mantar observatory, the Hawa Mahal and the Johari, Bapu and other bazaars around them); the hill-fort complex of Amber Fort, Jaigarh Fort and Nahargarh Fort, 11 km north of the old town, passing Jal Mahal on Man Sagar Lake along the way; and the new city south of the old town, with the Albert Hall Museum, Patrika Gate and shopping malls. Climate: from October to March, daytime temperatures are 20–30°C and nights are cool, making it the best season, with the Kite Festival in mid-January; from April to June temperatures often exceed 40°C; July to September is monsoon season, when the hills around Amber Fort turn green after rain. Getting there: from Delhi it takes about 4–5 hours by train (Shatabdi/Vande Bharat) or about 5 hours by chartered car on the expressway. You can also hire a car from Agra, 4 hours via Fatehpur Sikri, to complete the Golden Triangle. Jaipur Airport has domestic flights. In the city, use Uber/Ola or hire a car (about ₹2,000–3,000 per day); attractions are far apart and not suited to walking. Recommended stay: 2–3 days. Day 1: the three main old-town sights plus the bazaars; Day 2: Amber Fort (early morning), Jaigarh Fort, Jal Mahal and sunset at Nahargarh Fort; Day 3: Albert Hall, Patrika Gate, and a hot-air balloon ride or a blue pottery workshop. Tips: elephant rides up to Amber Fort are controversial, so walking or taking a jeep is recommended; when bargaining in the bazaars for jewelry and textiles, start at one-third of the asking price; gemstone investment scams are common, so don't believe pitches about "taking them home to resell for you." The foreigner Composite Ticket (₹1,000) covers Amber Fort, Nahargarh Fort, Jantar Mantar, Hawa Mahal, Albert Hall and more, is valid for two days, and is very good value. Rajasthani thali and lassi (at the old-established Lassiwala) are worth trying.

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Where to eat

Itineraries