Indore

India's 'cleanest city' and street-food capital; beyond the Holkar palaces, it's a base for Ujjain's Mahakaleshwar Temple, Omkareshwar and Maheshwar.

Indore is the largest city and commercial hub of Madhya Pradesh, India, set on the Malwa Plateau at about 550 m. From the 18th century it was the capital of the Maratha Holkar dynasty, and in recent years it has been named 'India's cleanest city' many years running. The city's own sights are concentrated in the old town: the Holkars' Rajwada palace, the Krishnapura Chhatris, the Kanch Mandir mirror-work Jain temple and, opposite, Sarafa Bazaar, which becomes a street-food market at night. The new town has the Lalbagh Palace and the 56 Dukan food street. Indore is considered India's street-food capital, and poha with jalebi and sabudana vada are well worth trying. Many visitors use Indore as a base for pilgrimages: about 55 km northwest, Ujjain has the Mahakaleshwar Temple, one of the twelve Jyotirlingas, along with the Mahakal Lok corridor and Ram Ghat on the Shipra River; about 77 km south is the Omkareshwar Jyotirlinga in the Narmada River, and about 90 km southwest is Maheshwar, the capital of Queen Ahilyabai. The ancient city of Mandu is covered as a separate destination. October–March is cool, dry and most pleasant; April–June is scorching, up to 45°C; and the waterfalls are at their most spectacular in the July–September monsoon. Devi Ahilya Bai Holkar Airport has flights to Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru and elsewhere, and there are direct trains too. Allow 1–2 days for the city, or 3–4 days including Ujjain and Omkareshwar; hire a car for sights out of town. Remove your shoes and dress modestly at temples, and book the predawn Bhasma Aarti at Mahakaleshwar in advance on the official website. At street-food stalls, pick ones that cook to order and are busy, and drink bottled water.

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