Île Sainte-Marie

A long, narrow island off Madagascar's east coast — a top spot for watching migrating humpback whales, with a pirate cemetery and the white-sand lagoon of Île aux Nattes.

Île Sainte-Marie (Nosy Boraha in Malagasy) lies in the Indian Ocean about 8 km off Madagascar's northeast coast; it stretches about 60 km north to south but is only a few kilometers wide, and belongs to the Analanjirofo Region. In the 17th and 18th centuries it was a pirate stronghold in the Indian Ocean, and a pirate cemetery survives to this day; occupied by France in the 19th century, the main town, Ambodifotatra, retains Madagascar's oldest Catholic church and colonial-era buildings. The island is all coconut groves, mangroves, coral reefs and white-sand beaches, and its biggest draw is the humpback whales that come into the channel to breed and calve every July–September, making it a world-renowned whale-watching destination; car-free Île aux Nattes off the southern tip, with white sand and turquoise water, is the top choice for staying put and unwinding. Main areas: the west-coast capital (market, church, pirate cemetery, Île Madame); the south near the airport and Île aux Nattes; beaches such as La Crique on the northwest coast; the mangroves of Ampanihy Bay on the east coast; and the natural pools of Ambodiatafana at the northern tip. The climate is hot, humid and rainy; April–December is relatively dry, with September–December the sunniest; January–March is cyclone season, when ferries and flights are often disrupted. Getting there: domestic flights from Antananarivo (about 1 hour), or a fast boat from Soanierana Ivongo on the mainland (about 1–1.5 hours), suspended in rough seas. On the island, rent a motorbike or bicycle or take a tuk-tuk; roads in the north are poor. Allow 4–6 days. Note: ATMs are few and often out of order, so bring enough cash; protect yourself against mosquitoes and sun; for whale watching, choose a licensed operator that follows the rules.

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Where to eat

Itineraries