Ikaho Onsen

A time-honored hot spring town on the slopes of Mt. Haruna, with inns lining its 365-step stone stairway, golden waters and autumn colors at Kajika Bridge; easy to combine with Lake Haruna and Haruna Shrine.

Ikaho Onsen lies in Shibukawa, Gunma Prefecture, on the northeastern slopes of Mt. Haruna at about 700 m. One of the Kanto region's classic hot spring towns, on a par with Kusatsu, it is famous for the 365-step stone stairway that runs through the town. There are two kinds of water: the iron-rich "Kogane-no-yu" (golden water), which turns reddish-brown as it oxidizes, and the clear, colorless "Shirokane-no-yu" (silver water); most inns in town offer them. The main sights are all within walking distance: climb the stone stairway, snacking on onsen manju buns and trying the old-fashioned shooting games, visit Ikaho Shrine at the top, then walk on to Kajika Bridge and the open-air bath near the source spring. Within 10–15 km toward Mt. Haruna are the crater lake Lake Haruna (the model for Mt. Akina in Initial D) and Haruna Shrine, surrounded by strange rock formations and ancient cedars. To the southeast are Mizusawa Kannon and Mizusawa udon, one of Japan's three great udon styles, along with family-friendly spots such as Green Bokujo farm and the Hara Museum ARC. Best seasons: early to mid-November, when the autumn leaves and illuminations at Kajika Bridge draw the biggest crowds; fresh spring greenery and snowy winter soaks are also atmospheric, and in deep winter Lake Haruna freezes over for ice fishing. Getting there: from Tokyo, take the JR Limited Express Kusatsu-Shima or the Joetsu Shinkansen and change at Takasaki to reach Shibukawa Station in about 2 hours, then take a bus for about 25 minutes; there are also direct highway buses from Shinjuku taking about 2.5 hours. Stay one night: spend half a day in the hot spring town and half a day at Lake Haruna and Haruna Shrine. Buses toward Haruna are infrequent, so driving is more convenient. The stone stairway is steep—if you have lots of luggage, ask your inn for a pickup.

Top sights

• Ikaho Stone Steps – A 365-step stone staircase runs through the hot spring street, lined with inns, shooting games and onsen manju shops. It is the symbol of I…
• Lake Haruna & Haruna-Fuji – A crater lake at 1,084 m that mirrors the cone-shaped Haruna-Fuji. A cable car takes you to the summit, and the road here is the inspiratio…
• Haruna Shrine – A mountain shrine surrounded by strange rocks and ancient cedars. Its main hall is built right against the huge 'Onsugata Rock', and it is…
• Ikaho Shrine – An ancient shrine at the top of a 365-step stone staircase, dedicated to the gods of hot springs and medicine. From the top, you can look b…
• Kajika Bridge – A vermilion drum bridge spanning a valley, surrounded by red autumn leaves. Lit at night in autumn, it is Ikaho's most popular photo spot.
• Ikaho Open-air Bath – A public open-air hot spring beside the source, where you can soak in the tea-brown “Golden Water” among the valley's trees.
• Mizusawa Kannon & Mizusawa Udon – The 16th temple on the Bando 33 Kannon pilgrimage. The street in front of the temple is the birthplace of Mizusawa Udon, one of Japan's thr…
• Takehisa Yumeji Ikaho Memorial Museum – A museum displaying works by Taishō-era painter Takehisa Yumeji. Its Western-style building often hosts performances on antique music boxes.
• Ikaho Green Bokujo – A sightseeing farm on the eastern foothills of Mount Haruna, where sheepdog herding shows and animal encounters appeal to families with kid…
• Hara Museum ARC – A black wooden museum designed by Arata Isozaki, housing contemporary art and traditional Japanese and East Asian antiquities moved from th…
• Ikaho Toy, Doll and Car Museum – A museum packed with nostalgic Showa-era toys, teddy bears and classic vintage cars, with a section related to Initial D.

Where to eat

• Gansoku Tamaruya – A long-established Mizusawa udon shop in front of Mizusawa Kannon temple, with a history dating back to 1582. Its signa…
• Osawaya Ishidan Branch – A branch of the famous Mizusawa udon shop Osawaya, located on Ikaho's Stone Steps, so you can enjoy it without going to…
• Shikisai Restaurant – A family-style tonkatsu restaurant on the lower Stone Steps, serving thick, tender cutlets made from Wabuta Mochi pork…

Itineraries

• Ikaho, Kusatsu & Karuizawa Hot Spring Drive – A self-drive trip from Tokyo through Gunma's two major hot spring towns, descending to Karuizawa through volcanic lava…