Iași
Moldavia's historic capital and Romania's cultural capital, where the Gothic Revival Palace of Culture, the carved stone of the Three Hierarchs Church and historic university buildings make it the academic hub of northeastern Romania.
Iași lies in northeastern Romania near the border with Moldova, built on seven hills. It is Romania's second- or third-largest city, was the capital of the Principality of Moldavia from 1564 to 1859, and served as Romania's temporary capital during World War I. Known as Romania's cultural capital, it was the birthplace of the country's first modern university, first national theater and first Romanian-language newspaper, and the poet Mihai Eminescu and writer Ion Creangă left their mark all over town. The main sights are close together: from the Palace of Culture, walk north along Ștefan cel Mare Boulevard past the St. Nicholas Princely Church, the Church of the Three Holy Hierarchs, the Metropolitan Cathedral and the National Theatre to Union Square, then take a tram or walk up to the Copou district to the north to see the Hall of Lost Steps at Alexandru Ioan Cuza University, Copou Park and the Botanical Garden. On the hills south of the city, the fortified monasteries of Cetățuia, Galata and Frumoasa make a good half-day taxi circuit. Within about 60 km are the Cuza Palace at Ruginoasa, Miclăușeni Castle and the Cotnari wine region, all easy day trips by car; the painted monasteries of Bucovina and the Neamț monasteries farther afield are best planned as a separate overnight trip. The climate is temperate continental: Apr–Oct is the best time to visit, summers can exceed 30°C, and winters are cold and snowy. The St. Parascheva pilgrimage around Oct 14 is the city's busiest time, so book hotels early. Iași International Airport, about 8 km from the center, has flights to many European cities; from Bucharest it is about 6–7 hours by train or about 1 hour by air. The tram network is extensive, and the center is walkable. Plan on 2 days. Most museums close on Mondays; dress modestly in Orthodox churches, and note that photography is forbidden inside some of them.
Top sights
- Palace of Culture – A neo-Gothic landmark of Iași, built on the site of a medieval Moldavian royal palace. It houses four museums and a famous clock tower.
- Church of the Three Hierarchs – A 17th-century church whose walls are covered in carved patterns from foundation to tower top, widely regarded as the peak of Moldavian arc…
- Metropolitan Cathedral, Iași – One of Romania's largest Orthodox cathedrals, housing the relics of St Parascheva. During the October pilgrimage, the queue of worshippers…
- Alexandru Ioan Cuza University – Romania's oldest university, whose main building's 'Hall of Lost Steps' is covered with allegorical murals by Sabin Bălașa, and the interio…
- Vasile Alecsandri National Theatre – A neo-Baroque theatre designed by the Viennese architects Fellner and Helmer, with a gilded auditorium and magnificent ceiling paintings.
- Copou Park – Iași's oldest park, where the old linden tree that poet Mihai Eminescu often sat beneath still stands, a pilgrimage site for lovers of Roma…
- Iași Botanical Garden – Romania's oldest and largest university botanical garden, with a rose garden, greenhouses, a lake and extensive woodland.
- Cetățuia Monastery – A 17th-century fortified monastery on a hilltop south of the city, enclosed by walls like a small castle, with views over all of Iași.
- Golia Monastery – A fortified monastery in the city centre, where the 30-metre Golia Tower can be climbed for views over the old town; the church combines Re…
- Palas Iași – A large commercial and public garden complex behind the Palace of Culture, with ponds, paths and restaurants, and a weekend leisure hub for…
- Union Square (Piața Unirii) – Iași's city-centre square, where the union of the two principalities was celebrated in 1859; it is surrounded by a statue of Cuza, the Trai…
- Galata Monastery – A hilltop monastery built in the 16th century by Prince Petru Șchiopul, with towered walls and the remains of a princely palace.
- Frumoasa Monastery – Its name means 'Beautiful Monastery'; a 19th-century neoclassical church and a restored princely palace share the same courtyard.
- St. Nicholas Princely Church – One of Iași's oldest buildings, founded by a son of Stephen the Great, and the church where successive princes of Moldavia were crowned.
- Ion Creangă's Bojdeucă – The former home of Romanian fairy-tale writer Ion Creangă, which became the country's first literary memorial museum in 1918.
- Museum of the Union – Prince Cuza's palace in Iași, displaying artefacts from the union of the principalities and Iași's role as provisional capital during World…
- Vasile Pogor House – A gathering place of the 19th-century Junimea literary society, now the main building of the Romanian Literature Museum, with writers' manu…
- Dosoftei House – One of the few surviving 17th-century houses in Iași, once the printing house of Metropolitan Dosoftei, now a museum of old books and liter…
- Great Synagogue of Iași – The oldest surviving synagogue in Romania, built in 1671, a reminder that Iași was once a major centre of Jewish culture in Eastern Europe.
- Ruginoasa Palace (Cuza Memorial Museum) – Prince Cuza's neo-Gothic country palace, now the Alexandru Ioan Cuza Memorial Museum, about 60 km from Iași.
- Sturdza Castle, Miclăușeni – A neo-Gothic noble castle with red-brick towers half hidden among trees; now managed by a monastery, it is a popular location for wedding p…
- Cotnari Wine Region – Moldavia's most famous wine region, where the sweet white Grasă de Cotnari was once sent by Stephen the Great to European courts.
Where to eat
- Casa Bolta Rece – A historic cellar restaurant dating back to 1786, once a meeting place for the Junimea literary circle, and a top choic…
- Trai Restaurant – Modern Romanian cooking in an old townhouse, using produce from small farms across the country. It is considered one of…
- Zori Restaurant – A creative tasting-menu restaurant in a century-old townhouse, where chef Marian Zăncianu makes fusion dishes with loca…
- La Plăcinte (Copou Branch) – A Moldovan chain specializing in freshly baked pies and home-style dishes. It is an affordable choice on Copou Boulevar…
- Toujours French Restaurant – A small French restaurant beside Unirii Square, listed in the Gault&Millau Romania guide, with many vegetarian options…
Itineraries
- Moldova to Bucovina Cross-Border Journey – Travel from Chisinau across the border to Iași, then visit the painted monasteries of Bucovina, ending in Suceava.
- Maramureș & Bucovina – Cross northern Romania from Cluj-Napoca to Iași, taking in wooden churches, a steam forest railway, and painted monaste…