Mount Hua (Huashan)

"The most perilous mountain under heaven," with five peaks like a lotus. The Plank Walk in the Sky and a night climb for sunrise are classic experiences, and the Xiyue Temple at its foot has long been a place of imperial sacrifice.

Mount Hua is in Huayin, Weinan, Shaanxi Province, bordering the Wei River plain to the north and joined to the Qinling Mountains to the south, about 120 km from Xi'an. It is the Western Peak of China's Five Great Mountains and is famed as "the most perilous mountain under heaven." The mountain is a single mass of granite, with the east, west, south, north and central peaks ringed like a lotus flower; the highest, the South Peak, reaches 2,154.9 m. The destination centers on the Mount Hua scenic area: on the mountain, between the five peaks, are famous perilous routes such as the Plank Walk in the Sky, the Hawk's Turn, Canglong Ridge and Qianchichuang; at the foot, Yuquan Temple on the north side is the start of the old hiking trail, and the Xiyue Temple in Huayin town is a palace-style temple where successive dynasties made sacrifices to the god of Mount Hua; about 25 km east is the ancient town of Tongguan at the bend of the Yellow River, and about 25 km west is the less-visited Shaohua Mountain. There are three main ways to climb: "up the west, down the north" (cable car up from West Peak and down from North Peak, about 6–7 hours, the least tiring and the most complete for views); "up and down the north" (round trip on the North Peak cable car, for those short on time); and the night climb, hiking from Yuquan Temple in the early hours for 5–6 hours to reach East Peak for sunrise. The best season is April–October; summer sees the most night climbers, and October brings fall color. Snow in winter is spectacular, but some perilous routes and cable cars may close. Getting there: the high-speed train from Xi'an North takes about 35 minutes to Huashan North Station, where a shuttle bus runs to the Mount Hua Visitor Center (where you board the shuttle to the mountain entrance); you can also drive on the Lianhuo Expressway. We suggest 1–2 days: one day for the climb and another half-day for the Xiyue Temple or Tongguan old town. Good to know: admission, cable cars and the shuttle bus are bought separately; in peak season (March–November) admission is about 160 yuan, and cable car queues on holidays can reach 2 hours, so arrive early; the Plank Walk in the Sky and the Hawk's Turn require renting a safety harness and queuing; food and water on the mountain are expensive, so bring your own; for the night climb, bring a headlamp and windproof, warm clothing, and military-style coats can be rented at the summit; those with a fear of heights or heart conditions should be cautious on the perilous routes. Prices and opening hours are subject to official announcements.

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