Hualien & Taroko

Marble gorges and the Pacific coast of eastern Taiwan. Taroko, Qingshui Cliff and Qixingtan form the most spectacular natural stretch along the island-circling route.

Hualien County lies in eastern Taiwan, backed by the Central Mountain Range and facing the Pacific. It is Taiwan's largest county by area, with a population of just over 300,000. It is known for the Taroko marble gorge, the Qingshui Cliff along the Suhua Highway and the farmland of the Huadong Longitudinal Valley. It is also where indigenous cultures such as the Amis and Truku are most concentrated.

The area divides into three segments. In the north are Taroko Park (Shakadang Trail, Swallow Grotto, Nine Turns Cave, Changchun Shrine and Tianxiang) and Qingshui Cliff. In the middle are Hualien City (Dongdamen Night Market, the former railway cultural park and the General's Residence) and the nearby Qixingtan and Liyu Lake. In the south, the Huadong Longitudinal Valley along Highway 9 has Ruisui Ranch, Ruisui Hot Springs, the Liushi Mountain daylily fields and Yuli. Along Highway 11 is the coastline, with Shitiping and the Tropic of Cancer marker. Farther south is Taitung.

Climate: March to May and October to November have moderate temperatures and stable weather, which makes them the best times to visit. June to September is hot and rainy, and it is typhoon season. The Suhua Highway and canyon trails are often closed by rockfall and heavy rain. Mid-August to September brings the annual highlight of the Liushi Mountain daylily fields in the valley. In winter, the northeast monsoon brings strong winds to the coast.

For transport, Taiwan Railways Puyuma or Taroko Express trains from Taipei take about 2 to 2.5 hours to Hualien Station. Hualien Airport has a few flights. From the city to Taroko takes about 40 minutes. You can take the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle Taroko line bus, hire a car (about NT$3,000–4,000 per day) or rent a scooter (driving license required). Two to three days is recommended: one day for Taroko and Qingshui Cliff, one day for Qixingtan, the city and Liyu Lake, and one day for the Ruisui valley.

Special note: On April 3, 2024, a magnitude 7.2 earthquake in Hualien caused widespread damage in Taroko Park. Trails and road sections are reopening in phases. Some sights, such as Nine Turns Cave and the rear section of Shakadang Trail, remain closed for the long term. Check the Taroko Park official website before departure. Carry rain gear in the mountains, and wear a helmet in rockfall areas of the gorge. Public transport outside Hualien City runs infrequently, so book a driver or drive yourself.

Top sights

• Taroko Gorge – A 19-kilometre gorge carved through marble by the Liwu River, with Swallow Grotto, Nine Bends Tunnels and Changchun Shrine ranking among Ta…
• Qingshui Cliff – Cliffs more than 1,000 metres high stretch for 21 kilometres along the Su-Hua Highway and plunge straight into the Pacific. The layered blu…
• Qixingtan Beach – A crescent-shaped pebble bay on the outskirts of Hualien city, with blue Pacific waters, a stony beach, and the Central Range rising behind…
• Dongdamen Night Market – The largest and liveliest night market in Hualien city. It combines an Indigenous food street, Fuding Night Market and Provinces Street. Gr…
• Shakadang Trail – A gentle trail carved along the Shakadang River, with emerald water and marble folds in the cliffs close at hand, making it Taroko's most f…
• Eternal Spring Shrine – A Tang-style shrine built to honour the veterans who died building the Central Cross-Island Highway. A waterfall pours from beneath the shr…
• Swallow Grotto (Yanzikou) Trail – One of the narrowest stretches of Taroko Gorge, where a trail runs along marble cliffs pocked with swallow-nesting potholes and the Liwu Ri…
• Liyu Lake – Hualien's largest inland lake, with Carp Mountain reflected in its waters. Lakeside bike paths, paddle boats and spring fireflies make it a…
• Tunnel of Nine Turns Trail – The most spectacular section of Taroko Gorge, where a winding tunnel trail is flanked by cliffs so close they nearly meet overhead, leaving…
• Buluowan Recreation Area – Former Taroko villages on two levels of river terraces above the Liwu River. Visitors can learn about Indigenous culture and look out over…
• Tianxiang & Xiangde Temple – A small settlement deep in Taroko Gorge. Xiangde Temple across the river and the Tianfeng Pagoda mark the end of the gorge route.
• Xincheng Catholic Church (Former Shinjo Shrine) – A Catholic church converted from a Shinto shrine built during the Japanese occupation period. Its torii gate and stone komainu remain, and…
• Hualien Cultural & Creative Industries Park – A cultural and creative park converted from a winery from the Japanese occupation period. Its old warehouses host exhibitions, creative sho…
• Pine Garden – A guesthouse built by the military during the Japanese occupation period. The Western-style building surrounded by old pines offers views o…
• Farglory Ocean Park – An ocean-themed amusement park on the coastal hills of Shoufeng, with dolphin shows, an aquarium and sea-view rides.
• Hualien Whale Watching – Boat trips from Hualien Port to see spinner dolphins and whales, one of the most iconic sea experiences on the east coast.
• Lintianshan Forestry Culture Park – Once one of the four major forestry operations in Taiwan, China, with Japanese-style cypress dormitories and log railway still intact. It w…
• Yunshanshui Dream Lake – A private ecological farm in Shoufeng Township. Dream Lake is lined with coconut trees and bald cypresses, and the mountain reflections mak…
• Lichuan Fish Farm – A sightseeing fish farm famous for raising golden clams. Visitors can wade in to pick clams and enjoy golden clam dishes and clam-essence i…
• Ji'an Keishuin (Qingxiu Temple) – A Shingon Buddhist temple built by Japanese settlers during the Japanese occupation period, and one of the best-preserved Japanese-style te…
• Mukumugi (Tongmen) Ecological Corridor – A gorge deep in the Tongmen community of Xiulin Township, with clear green Qingshui River waters. It is a hidden spot that requires an entr…
• Baiyang Trail & Water Curtain Cave – A classic trail near Tianxiang that passes through tunnels and over suspension bridges to Water Curtain Cave, and one of the most popular g…
• Lushui–Heliu Trail – A short trail along the cliffs of the Liwu River, with a historic cliffside path, the Heliu suspension bridge, and a campsite, ideal for an…
• Zhuilu Old Road – A historic path carved into a cliff 500 meters above Swallow Grotto, and the Zhuilu Great Cliff is one of the most thrilling classic hikes…
• Hualien Railway Culture Park – A cultural park converted from the former railway department office of the old Hualien Port Branch Office, featuring Japanese-style timber…
• General's Mansion 1936 – A restored complex of Japanese-style officers' quarters beside the Meilun River, with timber houses, air-raid shelters, and night lighting…
• 48 Highland – A coastal highland at the southern end of Qixingtan that was once a military outpost, offering views over the crescent bay of Qixingtan and…
• Tzu Chi Jing Si Hall, Hualien – The global headquarters of the Tzu Chi Foundation, a striking building with a Tang-style roof, where you can visit the Tzu Chi history and…
• Qixing Bonito Museum – A tourist factory converted from an old bonito plant beside Qixingtan, where you can learn about Hualien's bonito industry and sample bonit…
• Sanzhan River – A clear river valley on the southern side of Taroko and a popular summer spot for canyoning and wading, with guided river treks available f…

Where to eat

• Gongzheng Baozi – A legendary Hualien eatery with over 40 years of history. Its thick-skinned xiaolongbao and small steamed dumplings are…
• Yexiang Wonton – An iconic Hualien wonton shop operating for over 70 years, serving only one item: a bowl of thin-skinned, generously fi…
• Yellow Truck Bomb Scallion Pancake – A highly popular roadside stall on Fuxing Street, serving deep-fried scallion pancakes wrapped around a soft-boiled egg…
• Xinxin Noodle House – Despite its name, this is actually a highly popular Hualien seafood restaurant, famous for its assorted sashimi and the…
• Mr. Goose (Linsen Branch) – A long-running goose and stir-fry restaurant in downtown Hualien, where goose meat, scallion oil chicken, and goose oil…
• Jiaxing Ice Shop – A 60-year-old shop in Xincheng, just outside the entrance of Taroko Gorge. It is the birthplace of Jiaxing Lemon Juice…
• Dageeli Tribal House – A Truku tribal specialty restaurant in Chongde, serving set menus without a fixed menu priced per person, where guests…

Itineraries

• Classic Taiwan Rail Loop – Connect Taipei, Jiufen, Hualien, Taitung, Kaohsiung, Tainan, and Sun Moon Lake using TRA and THSR trains.
• In-Depth Taiwan Island Self-Drive Loop – Drive clockwise around the island, connecting the North Coast, Suhua, East Rift Valley, Hengchun Peninsula, and Alishan.
• East Rift Valley and Coastal Highway Loop – Travel from Hualien to Taitung, heading south along the Coastal Highway, exploring Rift Valley rice fields, and crossin…